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*Zafer Mehmood writes:
*>1. Is Bentley the best shop manual for the Audi or should I supplement it
*>with any other?
*The Bentley manual is the best source of tech information on your Audi,
*bar none. The only thing better is someone who knows the car hands-on.
Agreed. The Bentley manual is best and is the factory Audi manual.
You might also want to get the Bosch manuals specific to your version
of fool congestion.
*>2. I plan to change the oil and filter every 3000 miles and use Mobil 1
*>synthetic oil 15W-50.
*If you use Mobil-1 then you shouldn't have to change the oil so
*frequently. It's not a bad idea to replace the filters every 3K to
*5K miles, but you can just top up the Mobil-1 and completely replace
*the oil every other filter change.
Agreed, 3k seems a little excessive with Mobil 1. I would (do) just use
high quality petroleum oil and change it every 2-3k if you want to use
very frequent drain intervals. I change every 2k and use Pennzoil or
Valvoline or Castrol if I con't find the others in the correct viscosity
for present conditions.
*>I live in New Jersey and the viscosity seems right
*>for the weather here (I consulted the Audi owner's manual). Is it necessary
*>to use the Audi oil filter?
*The Audi turbo engine has a different main oil filter than the non-turbo
*versions. I would strongly recommend using the factory filter here.
*The turbo engine also has a separate oil filter for the turbocharger
*oiling system (located next to the main oil filter). This filter should
*also be replaced when you replace the main filter. The bad news is that
*the turbo oil filter is quite expensive (around $25 from the dealer).
*The OEM of the Audi turbo filters is Purolator, but I have not seen the
*exact replacement from aftermarket sources. Although Fram lists the
*same model for both turbo and non-turbo Audis, I would not use a Fram
*filter on an Audi turbo engine.
I run 10W30 in winter, 20W50 spring and fall and straight 40W in the heat
of the summer. As soon as I get my oil pressure sending unit hooked up
I plan to try using lower viscosity lubricants as an experiment.
On oil filters, if you are changing the oil every 2-3k I really don't
see the need to use the high $$$ factory filters. I have had great
success with the much maligned Fram filters for both the engine oil
and the turbo. No problems (yet :) at 161,000 miles and still running
strong. The lower cost of the Fram filters helps to justify (IMFO)
cost-wise the more frequent oil changes I perform.
*Non-turbo Audis use the same oil filter as the water-cooled VWs,
*which are made by Mann. You can get the Mann version from aftermarket
*outlets for around $4 a piece, compared to the $7 that Audi dealers
*charge for the factory version. Either way, the quality is much,
*much superior to the other brands (such as Fram).
*In my opinion, the difference in quality between the factory (or OEM)
*oil filters and the aftermarket ones is great enough to be worth the
*few extra bucks, especially so since the oiling system is vital
*to the well-being of the engine.
Perhaps I'm all wet here, but, the Frams have worked well for me with
frequent drain intervals.....
*>3. In a similar vein, for which replacement components should I stick to
*>genuine Audi OEM parts versus substituting with good aftermarket ones?
*Aftermarket units (like Fram) are just fine. If you are
*fanatic about air filters, then you can go with the K&N ones
*that have a clean-able element. The K&N is supposed to allow
*more air flow but I doubt the different is noticeable (or
K&N claims dyno-proven HP increases, small but real none the less.
I've had good luck with my K&Ns.
*I'm not sure if your car even has one of these. Even if it
*does, I doubt that it's going to require replacement in the
You got me on this one, but, I don't think it has one either.....
*The factory pads are notorious for squealing and leaving
*a lot of grime on your wheels. When it's time to replace
*the brake pads go with a set of Repco MetalMasters. The
*Repcos brake better, has less fade when hot, don't squeal,
*and keeps your wheels much cleaner.
Agreed, the Repcos are excellent.
*Use genuine Bosch replacement inserts. They last longer
*than the other stuff. You can get them for a decent price
*from non-dealer sources.
*Spark plug wires, distributor cap, rotor:
*Definitely go with genuine Bosch parts here. There is no
*reasonable substitute! Again, make sure you get the exact
*replacements! Non-Audi dealer Bosch sources are best for
Yep, use Bosch, they are the OEM parts. The tri-electrode plugs are excellent.
*>4. Is it necessary to change the oil drain plug gasket each time, as the
*>owner's manual recommends?
*Yes if you don't want to have to over-tighten the drain plug and
*you don't want a leak.
I always wondered about this one. I have never replaced it and still no
problems (just lucky?) even after 60-80 oil changes over the past 161k miles.
*>5. One thing I find unusual about my Audi (compared to other cars) is the
*>noise level in the car while its being driven. There is a rumbling noise
*>that comes at all speeds.
*The dealer diagnosis is probably right: worn wheel bearings. The
*quattro drive system should not emit any discernable additional noise.
*I guess tire noise is also a possibility.
Yep, wheelbearing(s). Common failure mode on Quattros.
*>6. A hissing noise can be heard coming from under the car when it idles.
*>The dealer said its from the fuel pump and is normal. Do you agree?
*Yes. It's just your faithful Bosch electric fuel pump whirring away.
Yep, be sure to replace it if it starts making "grumbling" noises or
if the noise changes substantially or gets a lot louder. Fuel pump
failure can wipe out expensive fool congestion components. :(
*Enjoy a fine car... Happy motoring.
Congratulations and enjoy!
ps What is the correct email address for the quattro mail group,