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Re: sway bars counterpoint
>> I have never seen an stock Audi, or any other FWD/AWD car, lift an
>seen any rally videos?
Well, like I said "stock" and I assumed on a flat level surface. I have
nevered rallied, but I have auto-x a lot. Sure, I've seen rally cars on
their roofs, but that doesn't represent a senero or normal driving
situation for suspension setup. The few times you might be able to lift a
inside front (like when the car is half in a ditch) is rare and not the
fastest way, so it shouldn't dictate any setup concerns.
>> Now, the inside rear is quite common for FWD, but not as easy for
>> an AWD. A bigger front bar will reduce this segnificantly. The only
>> real draw back from a bigger bar is that it will tend to make the car
>>understeer more (push). But with a little trailing throttle or braking
>> into turns will help combate this problem, yielding a faster cornering
>> car. I ran a 1.25" bar on the front of my 4000Q, wishing for more.
>i guess i didn't make it very clear.. with AWD and free wheeling
>differentials, it is important that the car rolls equally on both
>ends, otherwise one inside wheel might lift and spin.
Yeah it wasn't, that's why I mentioned both front and rear. I agree that
it is important the car roles equally on both ends, that's why I think a
bigger bar is helpful.
>> ..is a really amazing difference in the ability to accelerate
>> out of a corner with the diffs locked vs with them open.
>how about scrub? how bad is it? is this on the koop or the 4000?
>do you lock the rear diff too or just the center?
There is a significant amount of scrub when dry. I found the car would not
turn in as well on dry level paved surfaces (auto-x) which resulted in
slower turns and therefore slower times. In the rain, I found it to help,
due to the wheelspin that is possible now that the whopping 115hp could
easily break the wheels loose. If you used a bit more of a "point and
squirt technique, you can take top stock time of the day. ---JCG.