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Re: G6 grease for CV-joint?
On Oct 6, 10:05pm, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
> Subject: Re: G6 grease for CV-joint?
> > I'm planning to change the ripped outer CV joint boot on my
> > '85 5000ST this weekend, and I noticed that the manual says that
> > Audi G6 grease should be used while repacking the joint.
> > The Audi dealer is inconveniently distant, so I was wondering if
> > I could make do with just any old molybdenum grease. Any opinions?
> > (A local shop is getting the boot for me for $16.00 -- is that
> > an OK price, btw?)
> > Thanks!
> > -Arun
> Hi there,
> By coincidence, I have to change a LEFT outer CV boot, I just
> ordered both INNER and OUTER boot kits from Linda at Carlsen.
> I remember that it was about $25 for both, and the kit included
> the boot, the clamp, as well as the grease that goes into the
> joint. Linda told me that this was the way the kits came.
As it turns out, the kit I got also comes with a sachet
of grease, clamps and a new hub nut. $15.50 : it's
made in Germany, but doesn't appear to be VW/Audi.
> The grease needed for the CV joint is CRITICAL. use grease
> DESIGNED for CV joints, not just any wheel bearing grease.
Since the boots are there to keep the dust out and
the grease in, I suppose that goes without saying :-)
> Next is figuring how to get these boots changed with MINIMAL
Don't know about your Quattro, but it looks fairly
straightforward on my '85 5000ST.
1. Remove hub nut (32mm socket + breaker bar + cheater +
175 lb human at the end of lever).
2. Jack up car, remove wheel.
3. Remove caliper, rotor and hub.
4. Remove lower control arm knuckle joint nut/bolt.
5. Lever control arm down (stand on end of long, hefty
6. Pull strut outwards and extract end of drive
shaft from rear of hub.
7. Push old boot inwards along the driveshaft and
remove circlip (from the diagram, I'm not sure
what this holds in place).
8. Remove CV joint, clean out old grease and put in
9. Put in new boot, circlip, clamps.
10. Have assistant push down on control arm while
you pull on the strut and insert the driveshaft into the
hub. Put Locktite on the splines before this. This is
a bit of a pain.
11. Reassemble everything with new knuckle-joint nut/bolt,
new hub nut.
12. Lower car and torque hub nut.
Hmm -- maybe not quite so straightforward ...!
The only kink is that since it's an auto, I have to
push the lower control arm down to get the driveshaft out of the hub,
which means I need a new bolt and nylock nut for that
knuckle joint. Does anyone know if it's possible (on
a car with an auto) to just turn the wheels to full right
lock and get the driveshaft out of the hub, like they
do on the cars with manual trannies? I suppose I'll find
out anyway ..
> Alan Cordeiro
> '86 5000TQ
>-- End of excerpt from email@example.com