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Re: My "New" '87 5000CS Turbo Quattro
> Well if any of you remember my post about three weeks ago about a 87 TQ
> w/Hail damage, I got it! and get this I got it for $2000!!!!
Congrats! Great deal!
> Now I have several new questions...
> 3. Sometimes it idles at 1250rpm and other times it idles at 850rpm (By the
Maybe the idle air stabilizer (electrically-modulated) valve is sticky?
I had a 2000 RPM idle on my '86 VW GTI and I tried cleaning it, but
eventually replaced it. The factory doesn't recommend this, but you
can try this:
Be in the 1250 RPM idle condition. Pull the electrical
connector off the valve (located mid-forward of the
If the idle drops, the valve isn't sticky. The signal to the
valve may be causing it to maintain this high RPM. Look
If the idle stays at 1250 RPM, try tapping the unit. If
the idle drops, it's the culprit. Continue below even if
tapping doesn't drop idle.
Shut off car. Remove the air hoses and the electrical
connector to remove unit..
Use a non-marring stick to see if the "rotary" valve moves
freely. It's lightly spring-tensioned, but should close if
positioned in its mounted orientation. Move through its whole
range of motion. If sticky, continue.
Use a spray can of contact cleaner (for TV tuners, back when
mechanical contacts were used) and spray inside the air passages.
Tilt the unit with the electrical connector up, to avoid getting
any cleaner fluid into the motor section. Depending how gunked-
up it is, some brushing may be in order.
Re-check valve motion, replaced unit, and test idle.
If this is the problem, this fix might only be temporary.
> 4. how do I clean the window switches so that they will work again? (This
> is driving my girlfried NUTS!)
I did the following on my '86 5000S:
Weird item alert: You'll need a contact burnishing file. It's thin,
kinda flexible and has very fine "teeth" on both sides.
Pry out switches from the top. Pull off the connector, making sure
the wiring doesn't sink down into the door (kinda short).
The switch case can be pried off and re-assembled by using a thin-
bladed screwdriver. Try not to break off the tabs, especially the
ones on the driver-side cluster that holds the individual switches.
Spray contact cleaner (see above) and file contacts. The goal is to
ensure maximum mating area that's clean- don't overdo it or there
won't be any material left. Just remove the pits. Check with pencil-
magnifier and use the spray cleaner to wash junk off the file and
contacts. Close up.
If the wiring is short, you can't reach inside to hook up the
connectors. Turn power off and use a coat-hanger in a U shape to
wrap under the connector so you have something to push against.
Alan Cordeiro writes:
>> If you are willing to spend $35 each, new switches are the best long term
If heavily pitted, I agree. These switches look beefy, but experience says
if you don't use them, they stop working. Sometimes a quick series of
clickity-clicks will get it working.
If a window still won't operate, the Bently manual has a good logic flow
diagram that will help to isolate which sets of contacts are dependent
on a window.
> 6. Whats my best bet for more horsepower?
> That's all that I can think about now! any ideas and answers would be
> Eric Fletcher
> Instructor FAST COMPANY RACING SCHOOL
-- Eddi Jew