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Re: Headlight switch

>Not long ago, my headlight switch ('86 5000CS TQ) started refusing to
>remain on low beam.  It would go to low beam as long as you held the handle
>in that position.  It has recently started only working in high beam
>position at all. The lights go *out* in low beam position.  I reviewed the
>threads (back to 7/27/94) on the wiring and such (more voltage, igor, >...),
>and I guess the switch just just can't handle the full headlight load.  I
>also saw in Bently how to replace the switch assembly, but I originally
>wanted to take it apart before ordering a new one from Linda at Carlsen.
>The foot-to-18-inches of snow that we just got this last week kinda put a
>damper on my "didling" around with this.


>Is the switch "fried" completely (unfixable)?

>Price of a new one?

>Maybe Alan (Cordiero) could enlighten us as to what brand of dual headlight
>relay he used in his conversion ("RE: fog lights/driving lights", 21 Sep

>Any info is appreciated, thanks.

The headlight switch is part of a complete switch assembly that includes
the lights, turn signals, cruise, and the emergency flashers. The assembly
is riveted together with brasss rivets, and when I broke my headlight
stalk, after a temporary ( 5 or 6 weeks ) patch with epoxy, I sprung
for $120 or so for a brand new replacement from Shokan. I was not
a net member then, and only tried them for prices ( MUCH lower than
the dealer...).

The switch assembly is easy to change, and if you attempt to
repair it, it may be quite a challenge to dismantle it and bolt it
back together. I was in a hurry to get the car running again, so
I took the SURE way out.

The relay mentioned was purchased from J.C.Whitney for $17.95, it
was a dual relay, and included internal fuses all in one metal box.
I was un-impressed bt the quality, and so did not recommend it further,
but since I had already paid for it, and it was in my hands so to speak,
I installed it anyway. My backup position is the way I wired up
the lights preserves the original headlamp connectors, and I just tap
into them. If the relay fails, I can be back to the original AUDI
wiring in a few minutes.

Now, while I'm on the net........

1. I changed my front left CV boots over the weekend, I could not
   dismantle the out-board joint like I had planned, so I rented the
   "wheel puller" tool, and got the drive shaft separated from the 
   wheel hub. By the way, the tool to open the in-board joint is
   the 10mm 12 point bit. NAPA did not have the tool, and I tried
   to describe it as a 12 pointed TORX. The salesman brought out
   all the torx, and got pretty upset when I told him that it was'nt
   a torx, but "something like a torx" ... ("why the hell did you
   say it was a torx in the first place")
   Dismantling the outside joint required SERIOUS hammering with a 
   mallet all the while holding the infamous  CIRCLIP open
   Boy, was there TONS of grease all over the place.

2. Also changed my thermostat, very easy to do in principle, but
   requires a contortionist with very small hands to be able to
   reach in and loosen up and re-install the two 10mm bolts.

3. My friend, the Account Manager from Locktite, told me to soak
   the O-rings in a silicon based lubricant, and then make sure
   nothing moved while I put the two half sections together.
   In short, he thought it was POSSIBLE to sucessfully replace
   the seals....( O.K. Bill ..... I know what you are thinking
   while you read this...).

Alan Cordeiro
'86 5000TQ