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82 4000s no start condition - results

The car drove into it's parking space, but refused to start in the morning. 
 Well, a lengthy diagnostic period left me befuddled.  I was getting spark, 
and I was getting fuel.  All my miscellaneous extras appeared to have power 
and were behaving properly.  I yanked the plugs and gave it a compression 
test.  A little low in two cylinders, but that cleared up with an 
application of oil. So bad rings - 200K miles, okay.  Took of the timing 
belt cover and checked my marks.  Ah ha... it appears that I may have 
slipped a tooth.  The camshaft and the rotor match each other, but not the 
flywheel.  In addition the plugs had a gap wider than the ones our Audi's 
create in our pockets, and the rotor had some good burn marks on it trailing 
side.  So after new cap/rotor/plugs and a tweeking to the timing belt 
adjustment and dist. orientation, she started back up.
   Final prognosis was it either slipped a tooth, or the plugs just weren't 
up to firing a car that far out of timing adjustment- or both.  The trailing 
edge burns on the rotor tell me that the spark wasn't being applied at the 
exact proper time to begin with.  So the old lady just got so out of whack, 
that she finally couldn't start any longer...  But she starts now, and there 
is a new timing belt waiting to go in.  But not on the streets of Boston. 
 In the comforts of the heated garage thankfully.
   Thanks for the advice that was passed along though.

My next question as I'm about to add a oil pressure gauge, is how can I get 
my gauges to stop twitching when my stereo hits a bass note?  Turning the 
volume up has the effects of raising my oil temp. about ten degrees.  Go 
figure.  And where is the best place to connect the volt meter to get the 
most accurate reading?

TIA for your suggestions.

Stott Hare
82 4000s & 82 Scirocco 1.8l