The radiator fan problem is either: the resistor pack (2nd stage gone kaput), the radiator temp
fan switch mounted in the lower left end of the radiator, or the 2nd stage relay in the fuse box
near the windshield under the hood. Sometimes the 2nd stage relay points will weld themselves
together and kill the battery. The radiator temp switch is a three wire connection and if you unplug
the connector at the temp switch and short together the "correct" terminals (with Key On) you
should be able to isolate the problem. Check the wiring diagram before you begin. The resistor pack
is bolted to the frame rail in front of the radiator under the plastic cover.
The window problem is a pain, Halsey Import Parts in Portland,OR can order a replacement regulator
with motor for around $130. I used one of these aftermarket regulators and it does the job. IPC in
Fresno does have replacement regulators without the motors and I think rebuilt units as well.
The Starting/Running problem you described was already described correctly by Robert and is
caused by vapor lock/fuel perculation in the injector lines after the car is warmed up and is then
shut off for 10-15 min. The winter oxygenated fuel makes the problem worse. I have been tempted to
change the injector cooler fan temp switch (mounted on the rear part of the valve cover) to a lower
turn on temp variety to get this fan to come on more often.
I think the Bently manual lists a procedure to add on a temp switch and relay to help reduce under the
hood temps for earlier cars. Some of this problem is just related to the CIS fuel injection lines being
metal and then draped over the hot engine. Leaking/dripping fuel injectors will also make the problem
At the Portland, OR Quattro Club driving school it was funny to listen to all the Audi cars restart
after sitting there for 10-15 min after a hard run. They ALL would stumble/falter/miss after being
started due to this above mentioned problem. Ned Ritchie from IA confirmed this diagnoses as well.
>this car, but it is developing problems faster than I can fix them
>(financially speaking). I am hoping to save some money by fixing
>what I can.
>1) Only Stage Three of the cooling fan is working. So, when I sit
>in city traffic, it sounds like a DC-10 is landing in front of me. A
>friends suggests that the resistor pack (?) needs to be replaced.
>Does this sound like a likely solution? Where is it located, and is
>it possible for me to fix?
>2) Driver window doesn't work anymore. I dissassembled the door,
>and noted that the regulator needs replacing. Any secrets to this,
>or could a simpleton like myself do it?
>Solve this problem, and receive the "Mr. Fix It!" award:
>3) Start car. Works fine, idling at 800 RPM. Drive any distance.
>Stop car. Go shopping. Get in car. Start car. Car no longer idles
>when you come to a stop. Drive 3 footed. Car accidentally stalls.
>Car will not start. Just turns over. Sit embarrasedly in
>intersection for no less than 1 minute. (seems like 1 hour) Start
>car. Will start. Won't idle still.
B) Release me from this bondage.