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Re: Replacing Shocks on 200T
> 1. Is a special tool needed to remove the cap at the top of the strut
> which holds the shock in?
I've always used a large pair of Channelocks. There IS a special tool that
will allow you to replace the shocks WITHOUT removing the struts from the
car but unless you can borrow one from a dealer or shop, I'm not sure it's
cost-effective for a one-time job.
> 2. Should I plan on replacing the strut bearing. These often wear on Audi
> 4000s and VW Golfs. Do they wear in the larger cars?
The strut bearings seem to last quite a bit longer than they do on the 4000
(I replace those every 20k!) but I usually replace them every time I have
the struts apart (40k or so) since I tend to be picky about those things.
The rubber strut mounts at the top DO tend to crack and wear (at least here
in the desert) and I'd recommend replacing them as well.
> 3. Any other hints you might have for this job?
Plan on replacing the tie-rod ends, too. I've never been able to take them
off the steering arm without also destroying them. Also, this would be a
good time to repack the CV joints -- the outer one at a minimum -- as well
as replace the boots if necessary. Lastly, if you do end up taking the
struts apart, make sure you have a decent spring compressor ... my cheapo
one makes the job MUCH more difficult (HINT: clamp a Vise grip alongside
each of the compressors to keep them from sliding around to one side of the
> 4. Has anyone used Boge shocks on a similar car?
I've got the Turbo gas struts and shocks on two '87 5000s and they're still
going strong at 50k and 70k, which is something of a record in my book. The
damping is somewhat firmer than OEM but those were too soft in my opinion.
/| |_| |> | - |> |_| |> | (AudiDudi@delphi.com)
aka Jeff Goggin Scottsdale, AZ