[Author Prev][Author Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Author Index][Thread Index] 5K/4K: Front wheel bearing replacement
Here's a copy of what I wrote last year when I did my front wheel-bearing: it applies to my '85 5KT (non-quattro), but is probably quite similar to yours. Additional note: the pickle fork separator is murder on the tie-rod end ball-joint -- I had to replace mine anyway, so it was OK. -Arun --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Ably assisted by denizens of this list, I successfully replaced the driver-side wheel bearing on my '85 5000ST. Thanks a lot, everyone: the noise is now gone, I had a few hours of challenging but fun work, and I probably saved a couple of hundred dollars at least. Here's what I learned from the experience. Tools required (subset of those I actually bought/rented!): 1. 1/2" breaker bar. 2. Two-foot GI pipe to fit around breaker. 3. 32 mm socket (for hub retaining nut). 4. "Pickle-fork" tie-rod separator. 5. Sockets/wrenches (from memory) : 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 17mm, 19mm. 6. Nylon tie. 7. Haynes manual + suitable extrapolation! Parts: 1. Wheel bearing. 2. Replacement bolt/nylock nut for knuckle at lower ball-joint. 3. 3 replacement nylock nuts for strut mount. Cost: Roughly $80.00, since I had to buy many of the tools I needed. The parts alone cost under $40.00. I followed the steps in the Haynes manual, but improvised on the technique. The major difficulty was separating the lower ball-joint from the knuckle: I finally used the tie-rod separator and my trusty two-foot cheater as a huge lever and stood on the end of it. (Haynes would have you believe that you can lever it down with one hand using no more than a screwdriver :-|). I bought a screw-type tie-rod separator, but found that it wasn't deep enough. I finally used what the parts store called the "pickle-fork" separator. I took the strut assembly to a local machine shop, and he pressed out the hub and bearing and pressed in the new one for $20.00. Took about twenty minutes. The old bearing was so far gone that it rattled when shaken -- good thing I replaced it! Since the diagnosis was mostly guesswork, I'm relieved too. Thanks again, every one. Special thanks to Dave Lawson (?): his description of the front-end rebuild on his 4000 was very helpful. -Arun -- Arun Rao Scientist Pixar 1001 W. Cutting Blvd. Pt. Richmond, CA 94804 (510)215-3526
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