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>         Align one axle at a time.  The axle must be level.  Using a long
> carpenter's level or long straight edge and a level, span the width of
> the axle (at tire patch) and establish a level surface by shimming
> sections of 2x6 or equiv.

A water level requires a bit more effort but is significantly more accurate
since you can make sure all FOUR pads are level with each other and not two.

> Drive the axle onto the prepared level surfac{.
> using a torpedo level, hold the level vertical against the center portion
> of the wheel (remove hub caps).  The bubble should be cntered for "0"
> camber, on the outside for negative camber.  the amount of bubble offset
> from vertical can be calculated using the span of the level contact points
> on the wheel (r) and the specified amount (degrees).  the offset is equal
> to the camber in deg. times 2 pi r divided by 360.

A more accurate way is to drop a plumb line from a bar resting on the fender
(make sure it's centered) and measure from the wheel rim to the string using
a machinists rule... 

Also, another helpful hint: buy 8 pieces of cheap linoleum floor tile at the
nearest home improvement store.  Spray silicone lubricant on 4 of them (make
sure you spread it around evenly) then make a "tile sandwich" using the lube
as the filling.  Tape them together, put them on your leveled pads, and then
drive the car onto them ... undo the tape and -- voila! -- you now have four
cheapo swivel plates that allow the wheels to slide side-to-side as you make
camber and toe adjustments, and this prevents the suspension from binding up
as you make each change.  When you're finished, store them in a garbage bag;
if you keep them clean, they'll last almost indefinitely.

                /| | | |\  |   |\  | | |\  |  AudiDudi@delphi.com
               /-| | | | | | = | | | | | | |  Jeffrey Goggin
              /  | |_| |/  |   |/  |_| |/  |  Scottsdale, Arizona