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re: 90 Door lock lubrication
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Given that Audi locks need occaisional lubrication lest they (pardon
the pun) Lock-up, and given that my driver's side lock has busted,
and given that the passenger side is getting tight, and given that
I'm too cheap to fix the driver's side, and too lazy to take apart the
passenger side to lubricate it, What would you all think of squirting
some WD40 into the lock to loosen it up? Would the penetrating oil
eat away at the grease, causing a fairly near term failure?
Or should I take my wife's advice and get the damned thing fixed?
please email to:
88 90 10v 2wd. 160k and counting...
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I know others have talked about the 5K locks requiring lubrication,
especially on pivot points t prevent them from binding and breaking, but
you may have a slightly different problem. My drivers side lock (1988
90Q, 10V) broke about a year ago. My local dealer sold me a "New and
Improved" part for $3 that fixed the problem.
The lock cylinder turns a small "cast pot metal" (aka Cheap) arm about 1-2
inches long that activates the lock mechnaim. This piece has a habit of
breaking. The replacement piece is a stamped steel piece that does not
fit the cylinder, but can be filed to fit. Voila - a repaired lock for $3
plus the 2 hours aggravation of removing the door panel and more to get at
the lock. They apparently do not stock an exact replacement, and will
only sell a new cylinder and arm if you don't want to file the new arm.
The new cylinder went for something like $100+
When I removed my lock (after 140K and 6 years) the pivot points appeared
very clean, no dirt or grime built up. But, if you lube it, use the dry
type lube that Eric recommends - wet lube will attract dirt and grime.
Spraying WD-40 (or the dry lube) into the lock cylinder will probably not
do anything for your problem.
I think your wife is on the right tract - fix the drivers side before the