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Re: 4000SQ: Control arm bushings

Another way to get these out is to find a socket the same size as the 
outer casing of the bushing.  Set the control arm up in a vise and tap 
the bushing out with the socket and a hammer.  

Of course the best thing to do is find someone with a press.  Even then, 
the socket thing is handy.  I replaced my front bushings on my VW Quantum 
- no big deal.

Mike is right - you will be able to see if the bushing is bad when you 
"wiggle" the control arm.  If they're real bad, you'll hear a clunk when 
you start accelerating or braking.

I don't know if I'd start cutting things with a hack saw - it's not 
really that hard to tap them out.

Jeremy R. King
Audi at Heart

On Thu, 26 Oct 1995, Michael J. Oehler wrote:

> > From: Lynn Smith <lynn@dvcorp.com>
> > Anyone care to enlighten me as to the symptons of bad control arm 
> bushings?
> Mike's simple test:  place the car on stands, move the wheel in & out,
>   and see if the arm moves.
> Advanced test: separate the arm from the ball joint and remove the
>   two bolts that hold the arm to the body. If the metal pipe in the center
>   of the bushing falls out, it is bad.
> Here is how I replaced the bushing:
>  - The bushing is two metal pipes with rubber in the center.
>  - It is pressed into the control arm.
>  - Shade tree mechanics (like myself) cannot press the bushing out.
>  - Place a hack saw through the bushing (most of the innards will be gone)
>  - Cut through the outter pipe of the bushing only
>  - Do not cut the control arm itself! You can easily make this mistake.
>    Do not cut too far!
>  - Use a vise-grip and fold the cut bushing. This releases the pressure
>    that holds it into the control arm and it'll drop right out.
>  - Use a mallet to insert the new bushing making sure the curved top
>    goes in the same direction.
> I replaced all 4 up front, in an evening.
> Hope this helps and of course, your mileage may vary.
> -Mike