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Brakes - Jesse & Tom

Jesse sayeth:
> As I exited the freeway today and stepped on the brakes all the wheels locked
> and I skidded to a complete stop.  After that the brakes would not release
> and I could not move the car until I tried reversing for about a foot.  Then
> I could go forward but if I touched the brakes--even lightly-- the wheels
> lock.  What's up with that?  I just had the brakes serviced on Saturday and
> of course this episode happened 35 miles away from the shop where the work
> was done.  On the brighter side,  the Coupe is sitting about a half mile from
> an Audi repair shop.  I just don't know how to get it there.

Jesse - I'd call the wrecker and have them take it in on the hook.  
This is nothing to mess with.  Worth $50 to save the car...

Is it possible this is one of those bad master cylinder problems in 
which the fluid swells when the engine compartment gets hot - and 
locks the front brakes?  I remember discussion on this lately - and 
that pulling one brake line at the master cylinder allowed diagnosing 
the problem when fluid squirted out....

About Tom's posting on parts cost - 

$300 is more than you should have had to pay for a PA - they are 
available for less than that if you shop the vendor list.

> I just checked this morning as my car has begun to buzz and flash the
> brake warning in the mornings, this is the bomb, yezz? It also came on
> when I was waiting for the train to pass and I pumped hard on the
> brake about 12 times with the engine at idle.

Am I confused?  I thought you had already replaced the bomb.  If 

It could be another component - perhaps the hydraulic pump.  I'm 
beginning to think they often mask each other's symptoms, and that 
perhaps some of the PAs replaced are actually due to bad pumps.  If 
it's the pump, pressing repeatedly on the brake pedal keeps the 
pressure low and will keep the warning light on.  Try running the 
engine with the brake off, and see if the light goes off - and 
whether a quick pump or two on the brake makes it light up again.
> My VAG dealer wants SEK 4.5K (~ US$ 700)!

For what part?  The hydraulic pump?  If so, WAY too much.  You can 
get one rebuilt for under $200.
> My temp gauge sender is also flaky, SEK 875 (~ US$ 135)!
> How much are these at Carlsens?
> Thomas

Also try AudiOnly in Denver, 800/962-1902.  Peter is a nice person to 
deal with.

PS: I'm waiting for a new supply of lifeblood (Pentosin) from 
AudiOnly (for about $8 per liter!).  When I get it, I will replace my 
hydraulic pump.  I have made my own pressure gauge to replace Audi 
part #1441 and will post about the four-month diagnostic process I've 
done - but I want that stuipd pump to be in place and be 100% sure the 
problem is finally dead, with a stake thru its heart!!