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Re: seat heater lights out
> From: "Robert D. Russell" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
> Subject: seat heater lights out
Here's the orignal post
Date sent: Wed, 1 Mar 1995 08:50:16 -0500
Subject: switch repair procedure
Several folks have asked question on the heated seat switch light bulb
replacement, so I wrote the procedure I used to to do it. It is NOT a matter
of just pulling the bulb out after the front cover is popped off, as a
previous note suggested (that is the case with the other switches). The seat
heater switches have the bulbs soldered in. Seems they are specificially
designed to make you go out and spend $82.95 every 40,000 miles.
Parts: Replacement Bulb, Radio Shack part number 272-1092. ($1.49 for two)
A small screwdriver.
A soldering iron.
Solder wick wire.
5 minute epoxy orsome other non-flowing adhesive.
Needle nose pliers.
9v battery with leads
Pry the black case off the tabs in the base and pull the switch out of the case.
Bend the small spade terminal latch tangs inward to line up with the slot in
the plastic base.
Sequentially push the spades out, a little at a time, to remove the plastic
base from the circuit assembly. Do NOT try to pull the base off the spades - you
will pull the spades off the circuit board.
One at a time, melt (with the soldering iron) the 4 round posts of red plastic
that that stick through the circuit board while prying the red plastic housing
apart from the circuit board. Pull the circuit board streight off the red
housing . Do this with the red plastic housing on the table top and the
circuit board facing upwards, because there is a tiny ball bearing in a recess
in the plastic housing that you will loose if you do it the other way around.
__ __ __
| | | = Spade Teminals
CCCCCCCCCCCCCC C = Circuit Board
H H H = Housing
H 0 H 0 = Tiny Ball Bearing
Remove the solder holding the bulb using the solder wick and iron.
Cut the leads on the new bulb to the correct length and solder it in the
same way as the old one.
Test with a 9 V battery to make sure it works.
Assembly is the reverse of disassembly. Make sure the ball bearing is in its
little recesse, and that it deosn't pop out when you snap the circuit board
back onto the red housing. Re-melt the red posts that stick through the circuit
board. If you broke the posts during disassembly, put a small blob of quick-
dry adhesive on the hole to bond the board to the post.