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5ktq Water Pump R/R Procedure (long)

Just did it dave....   All bolt references are wrench not bolt size

*  Set crank @ TDC
*  Remove grill and IC, your knuckles will thank you
*  Remove HP belt and bolt from adj bracket, loosen pivot bolt, push HP all
the way down to remove belt, up to remove rear cover and WP
*  Remove timing belt cover
*  Remove timing belt from cam only
*  Remove cam gear (peel out woodruff key)
*  Remove 10mm bolts on top rear cover, 1 13mm pass side bolt for pump (even
if you    drained engine, here comes some antifreeze
*  Remove 2 10mm bolts holding lower cover (drivers side needs some serious
*  Remove 2 bolts on rear cover (behind lower cover)
*  Remove 6mm hex top bolt  (pump) on drivers side
*  Remove 13mm lower bolt (pump) on drivers side
*  Remove pump and rear cover together (it's a tight clearance, but if you do
this, it's not     necessary to remove belt idler pulley)
*  Clean gasket mating surface with brass brush really well, clean bolt
threads too
*  Remind yourself that you prolly should have r/r the timing belt, you are
only one bolt     away <:~(
*  Replace pump and rear cover together and install, make sure you have the
HP bracket outside of WP slot
*  Reverse bolt install procedure.  Leave pump bolts finger tight, the pump
is the adj for the T-belt....  do the drivers side lower FIRST when
installing outside lower cover, it saves some swearing.....
*  Put cam gear on (hey how bout a tooth adv?), adj belt (90 degrees belt
twist at midpoint of cam gear to water pump), too tight and you will do the
pump again soon.  Double ck TDC
*  Make sure cam gear bolt threads are clean, loctite, reinstall @ 59ft/lbs
torque ONLY (not 280 like on my wifes car)
*  Tighten pump bolts
*  Replace IC and front grill
*  Fill with Phosphate free antifreeze mix
*  Return Core
*  End of Procedure

PDQSHIP time = 1 hour with coffee + 2 swears at the lower DS bolt cover

Warning, if you do CUT the cover, you don't save the cam gear removal, so do
it right....  The cover is designed to NOT let antifreeze onto belt
when(that's not an if, btw) gasket leaks again...  If you cut it, you now
have another potential prollum, and a mandatory R/R of timing belt every time
you do the pump....  Not sure I get the savings with that in mind....  And
since the balancer removal tools are 300USD, shortcuts can get expensive in
the long run....  Cutting the cover on the car?  Don't do it, the metal
shavings collect in the crank gear/belt interface, that would be, um, bad
.....  Taking it off and cutting it, hmmmm  the why question here...

1 down, 1 to go

5ktqRS2 stage III,  no WP leaks, 320hp, IA stage II   PEARL
5ktqRS2 stage VIII, WP leaks, coupla HP, IA stage n+1  BLACK