In a message dated 96-02-25 09:44:23 EST, you write:
>Both switches come apart the same, 2 small screwdrivers are inserted from
>back down the long sides and pry it away.
>Ok, now you can see 2 contacts, one for up, one for down, the down one is
>the little bulb over it. You'll notice they are both in contact allready.
>window moves when
>the contact is broken (No jokes about my brade pad light fiasco:-( ).
>I found the problem to more of one with metal fatigue. As in when the
>deppressed it wasn't moving the arm enough to break the contact. I bent the
>up slightly and wallah..... working switches :-) Cleaning the contacts
>work for me.
>I did all kinds of tests with the switch cover and casing off. This way I
>watch the contacts
>moving.... or in some cases not moving till I bent the fixed part of the
>I'd like to thank the guys who told me how to get the casing off in the
Your welcome, and right that this is NOT a graduate level course..... I
posted that after doing the procedure in a rest area (bored and couldn't
sleep) with a MacGuyver knife and a small screw driver, THAT's All.... At
30USD a pop, not sure I understand the replacement concept.... I'll take the
old ones you folks replaced.... Window switches in Audis are "points" type,
if you go back to the pre-electronic ignition days, the procedure is no
different to cleaning the switches, and takes about the same time.....
Hardly difficult, and justifies good beer on successful completion of
task.... NJTH, BTDT X many