Re: Fried connection/no low beam - update

[raf40@oes.amdahl.com (Richard Funnell)]

>This update on my no low beam situation brings me to ask some
>questions.  The problem for my no low beams was a fried low beam wire
>(the yellow one) going into the headlight switch.  I ordered a new
>headlight switch from Linda@Carlson, got it installed but found that
>the yellow wire connection into the housing which connects to the
>headlight switch is loose. If you play with the wire the low beams come
>on/go off.  After looking at the wire closely, the metal connection and
>housing for that wire was melted a bit.
>
>So, my questions are:
>
>1.  How does one check to see if the origional headlight switch is
>still good and its just a matter of putting a new connection on the
>yellow low beam wire?

Trace it with an ohmeter with the power disconnected.

>2.  Or since the metal connection to the yellow low beam wire and the
>plastic housing it is inserted into were melted a bit and my low beams
>don't work, is it a no brainer that the overload made my headlight
>switch bad?

Not really.  If the contact started to work loose, which happens sometimes,
the resulting contact becomes high resistance.  This causes heat, which
melts the insulation.  A properly installed wire connector shouldn't have a
problem with the overload.  The switch contacts are a different thing.

>3.  If my headlight switch is still good, could this situation make it
>weaker and its best to keep the one I ordered and put it in?

If your original switch is good, I'd keep it and send back the new one
after trying the old one a few days.

>
>Thanks to all who replied to my origional post, it really helped me.
>
>Scott
>89 200tq

Richard Funnell,
San Jose, California
'83 urQ
'87 560 SL