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Re: Electrical mischief

At 05:58 PM 3/1/96 GMT, you wrote:
>OK Audiphiles I need your collective genius on this one.
>Situation-stop and go traffic, 2/29/96, outside temp 29F
>Heater on-fan set on low, radio on, parking lights on.  Digital dash
>voltmeter reading 13.2.
>While stopped the temperature went high enough to kick on the radiator
>cooling fan, it is supposed to do that, BUT my dash lights momentarily dimmed
>and my radio went dead for a second.  This happened a number of times.  I'm
>pretty sure that when the fan came on and the car was moving, the above did
>not occur, tough to tell. Also when the cooling fan kicked on the volts
>reading went to 12.1 which I feel is one hell of a draw.  If it means
>anything, both the battery and alternator are less than 5 months old.
> Any ideas, solutions and/or strategies would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
>Len Ferrara 87 5000cstq
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The reason I own my  '87 5KTQCSE is because Audi in their infinite wisdom
does not put any kind of fusible link or high amperage fuse between the
battery and the cooling fan!  This fan in, a normal stage  3 cooling event,
draws about 42 amps.  That is not a typo-forty-two amps!  The previous owner
ignored similar symptoms to what you are experiencing.  When the fan bearing
did finally fail, the resulting current draw ( I figure it take about 100
amps to melt a #8 wire) took out 2 of the wiring harnesses feeding the
engine.  The most he was able to sell the car for was to me for $3K.  This
was in 1993.  Two months later and many skinned and bruised hands and arms I
got the car back on the road after replacing aforementioned harnesses. A
true beast of a job!  Good deal for me-bad deal for him.  The car had been
meticulously maintained and I documented the chain of events by referring to
his previous service records.  CHECK YOU FAN WIRING AND THE COOLING FAN
ITSELF AS SOON AS POSSIBLE.  The $500.00 you spend (list price from dealer
consult archives for better prices) can save the car.  Don't ignore these