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"Paul C. Waterloo" <email@example.com> asxked:
> On my '87 5KSQ, the brake warning light comes on every now and then. It started
> late last summer, especially when it was hot outside. It would normally come on
> after a hard brake, and then not reset until the car had been sitting idle
> It still comes on, I've been testing it lately. If I brake real hard, it
> doesn't come on, but after I brake hard the second time within a short period of
> time, it comes on.
> Also, I have noticed that it has come on when turning the wheel at low speeds (a
> lot of wheel turn), and not during braking.
Paul - as others have commented, your description indicates the
pressure accumulator, aka "da bomb" (looks like WWII potato masher
grenade...) is failing. This is a metal bottle filled with nitrogen,
into which the power steering/brake hydraulic system pumps pressure.
The nitrogen provides a pressure buffer to keep you from feeling the
pulsations of the piston-type hydraulic pump, and also to provide
pressure assist for the power brakes. This is a common failure in
Audis, and tho expensive at a dealer, is VERY easy to do yourself and
VERY much less expensive when you buy your own parts.
And the Hon. Robert Myers <firstname.lastname@example.org> replied:
> The pressure accumulator, if that is the problem can be obtained from
> Linda for consideraly less than the $400 mentioned below. A bit ofer
> $200 as I recal (if you call 50-60 a bit). A hour of labor is about right.
I'm confident you can find this part for $200 or UNDER. Check
Carlsen, but also check Blaufergnugen and AudiOnly. I'd bet at least
one of them will be under $200. These guys should be in the Web page
One hour is PLENTY to replace this part. You will need a pan to
catch dripping fluid and about 1/2 liter of Pentosin to replace the
fluid which is lost in the operation. Make SURE you get the correct
kind Pentosin for your hydraulic system, as there is a type 7.1 and a
type 11. The year of the vehicle determines which is correct - the
newer ones use type 11. Plan on getting your left arm and both hands
real slippery with Pentosin.
Even the first time I tried this, it took only 45 minutes. Email me
for a complete itemized procedure to do this replacement. If you
want to see it, look just inside the driver's side tire well for a
horiizontally mounted black metal part about 12 to 16" long with
two hoses bolted to it and one small one one its rear tip, connected
with a hose clamp.
> With a totally shot PA neither brakes nor steering work right.
> The definitive test for a bad PA: Run the engine for a couple of minutes
> to allow the PA to charge its best. Turn off engine and repeatedly press
> the brake pedal, counting presses, until the pedal starts to feel hard.
> 30 or more presses and the PA is OK. 10 or fewer = replace it ASAP.
> 15-20 = keep a watch on it and be prepared to replace it before long.
> When it gets down to 1 or 2 = you ain't got no power assist on brakes or
Agreed mit Senor Roberto. I replaced mine and I still get a warning
light for a while during the first few seconds after start-up, but
I've learned to live with it.
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