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RE: Couple o' questions (ATF in the oil, oil filters and Redline)
OK, Peter, I get to answer your questions for a change.
1) I saw a pretty good selection at B&B Auto Parts on Main Street in Bellevue
last weekend, including the kind we need (I think). According to p.97 of my manual:
Synthetic transmission oil G50, SAE 75/W90 (Mil-L-2105 or API/GL4)
The stuff I saw at B&B was Mil-L-2105D or API/GL5 which I think both
supersede the ones mentioned by Audi and are backwards compatible.
2) I got a couple at Barrier on the same trip last weekend (their parts dept. is
open 9-5! on Saturdays, till 6 during the week. They are very close to you,
near where Smith's used to be near 148th.
3) I've gone to a place in Kirkland called Made in Japan. 885-2726 They talked
about using an oil flush product. Basically they pour some of this in either in
your old oil before they drain it, or maybe with a sacrificial quart or two and then
drain that after running it a minute. Then you put your new oil in and go. Haven't
done it, don't know how well it works.
On the subject of how do they tell if they aren't changing the oil: if it's moisture
in the oil I remember a friend who had a white goop under the bottom of his
oil filler cap. This was from moisture in the oil. Do you use this car for mainly
in-town short hops? Maybe you don't burn the moisture out of the oil in this
kind of driving.
Seattle, WA, USA
'91 200 Quattro [217hp/228lb-ft]
'90 Mazda 626 Touring Sedan (5-door) GT [145hp/190lb-ft]
1) Where do I get Redline transmission fluid for my 91 200 and what kind
do I need?
2) What's a good oil filter to use on that same car?
3) (The weird one) My Acura (yes, I know, but the other 2 questions were
Audi...) seems to have a lot of sludge build-up. The dealership points
Thanks, but I'm already using synthetic (Mobil 1) and have been changing
every 3,000 or so miles.
I'm actually questioning the dealer's judgment at this point. I wonder
if they're just picking it up from the service history and then
BTW, how would they tell without changing the oil?
- peter, firstname.lastname@example.org, redmond, wa
94 acura legend gs
80 mazda 626
>Sent: Thursday, April 11, 1996 12:57 PM
>Cc: Peter Henriksen
>Subject: Re: Couple o' questions (ATF in the oil, oil filters and
>peter, email@example.com wrote:
>>3) (The weird one) My Acura (yes, I know, but the other 2 questions were
>>Audi...) seems to have a lot of sludge build-up. The dealership points
>>this out every time they see it and have been saying that there's
>>nothing I can do about it. However, the last time I was there I actually
>>talked to one of the mechanics and he suggested putting a pint of
>>Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) in with the oil for the next 3 oil
>>changes and do those 3 oil changes 1,000 miles apart. The ATF supposedly
>>contains a lot of cleaning agent(s) that will dissolve the sludge and
>>enable it to drain with the used oil. Does this sound reasonable to you
>Forget the ATF. When we talk about sludge, we mean a thick (mayonnaise
>like) build-up on non-moving parts. Sludge is a result of insolubles
>overloading the lubricant.These insolubles could be dust,dirt,wear
>particles, or oxidation products. Even if you could remove all the
>from your engine (regardless of the the means by which you do it), the
>build-up will almost certainly recur. Think about what could be causing
>build-up in the first place.
>things to consider (in order of importance)
>Is your air-filter being by-passed?
>If not, you should consider going to a shorter service duration (
>your oil more frequently).
>Consider a synthetic. They have greater solvency than pertroleum based
>oils, and will leave your engine cleaner. Many also include better
>packages, and may allow you to get by with your current drain interval.
>Rather than using ATF, why not just substitute some synthetic oil for
>petroleum oil in your next change. then drain after a couple thousand
>miles. Much of the sludge should be dissolved by then.
>Robert S. Cohen NewMedia Inc. The Lubrizol Corp