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Re: A4 Stereo Information
Thanks for the input! I am thinking of ordering the same MM3045s for
my A4Q front. I already have installed the Polk MM3065s in the back.
Very clean sound with Sony 4045 Amp producing 40 watts RMS, per
channel. Bass is reasonable, but overall the sound is extremely clean
and crisp, no coloration at all. I too speand a weekend installing
speaker, but I started from the back. Here is what I found.
How to remove the back deck.
If I remember correctly, you have to unpull the third brake light
first. (Its been about six weeks since I did this.) Fold down the
back seats, and you will several phillips head screws along the edge
where the seat back rests. Remove these. The black cardboard/carpet
deck is snap pinned to the steel decking. Additionally, the deck a
several L shaped clip near the window edge. (You can see them from
underneath, inside the trunk) Once up unsnap the front (near the seats)
lift the deck about three inchs and pull towards you, the slip out the
L backets. The rear speakers are now open. Just reverse this to
Rear Speaker Installation
The rear speakers are also three screw mounted and will require a
template to install. I used 1/2" dense furniture grade plywood to make
two 9" circles, with a 6.5" hole in the center, with three screw mounts
to the original location. Height is fine. I used 1" air conditioner
foam to seal the gap between a portion of the template and the steel
back deck. (This will make sense when you remove the make cover.) If
you are planning to use the original receiver for power, don't. The
Amplifier is attached to the drivers side Rear speaker. Without it,
nothing works (Headphones maybe). With it removed and attached to the
"new" speakers, it produce very little power (8 Watts maybe, not RMS).
I tried the MM3065s with the factory amp, I sounded like a listening
to a concert from the parking lot outside! Weak and distorted.
I understand from somebody else note, that a Antenna is already wired
somewhere in the back. The factory manual doesn't even talk about the
Celluar Phone (It has it in the table of content, and the actual page
How do the MM3045 sound in front?? Are you using the original Receiver
for power or what?? How did you mount the the tweeter in the original
Vaino (Skinned knuckle learner)
1996 A4Q Silver/Black Leather waiting for my Koni's and H&R Springs.
Dan Masi Worte:
From: dan_masi@MENTORG.COM (Dan Masi)
Subject: A4 Stereo Information
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 96 15:40:17 EDT
So, I spent the weekend installing different front speakers
in my A4Q, hardwiring my Valentine-1, and installing (OK,
half-installing) a handsfree cellphone kit. I figure I'll
sent some little bits of info I gathered during the process, in
case anyone needs to do similar things.
A HUGE Thank-you to those who told me how to remove bits and
pieces of the car! These cars are *much* easier to work on
than any Japanese car that I've seen, *once* you know where the
Also, if anyone can give me hints on removing the center
console, rear speakers, and running a cellphone antenna cable
from the center console to the rear window, that'd be great.
A QUICK VALENTINE-1 HINT:
To make a power cable for the V-1, take a standard telephone
cable w/ RJ-11 (?) jack on one end (cut the cable if you've
got RJ-11 on each end), and connect the GREEN wire to +12V,
and the RED wire to GROUND. The black and yellow wires are
not used. If you wire it backwards accidently, don't worry;
the Valentine-1 has reverse voltage protection. I, uh... checked.
CELL PHONE MIC IN THE A-PILLAR
I decided to mount my cell phone microphone in place of the
standard Motorola one that's already there. The driver's side
A-pillar trim is held in place by 3 clips, spaced roughly equally
nearer the rear edge of the trim. To remove, peel back the flexible
molding along the rear edge, then pry the clips out by pulling
out and back. The microphone is mounted on a small circuit
board that's mounted to this trim piece. I removed this board
and mounted my mic in it's place, then ran the cable down the
trim piece. Also ran my V-1 power down this trim piece, and wired
it in at the fuse box.
My A4Q is the non-Bose, standard-stereo US version.
What's currently there: each front door has a 4" driver mounted
low, with a 3/4" tweeter mounted high and crossed over with a
simple capacitor. Speakers are made by Nokia.
Interestingly, the 4" driver on the driver's side is different
from that on the passenger's side. It's a dual-voice-coil
design, with the second coil fed from a seperate pair of
wires. I assume that the radio has a subwoofer amp and crossover
built in, but I didn't have time to investigate. Anyone know
details? Also bizarre is that the wire to the left set of
speakers is a thicker gauge than the wire for the right speakers.
I just taped off the wires that fed the second voice coil.
To get at the speakers, you have to remove the door panels. Remove
the two visable screws at the upper corners of the door panel.
Remove the screw in the armrest, inside the grab-handle area. Now
remove the oval-donut trim piece that this screw was holding in
place, by snapping the trim piece downward. This will expose two
screws; remove them. The door panel is now removed by lifting it
upwards, then out. You'll need to disconnect electrical cables
and unhook the door latch cable.
The tweeter is held in place by a wire clip; to remove the clip,
you have to first remove the trim piece that contains the
tweeter assembly and door latch handle. Do this by removing
the screw in the back of the door panel between the tweeter and
the latch, then pressing the two locking tabs (located forward
of the tweeter) rearward, allowing the trim piece to be pushed
outward. Now remove the wire clip from the tweeter by pulling
the forward end of the wire out of the mounting hole.
The midbass drivers are held in place by three screws in a
non-standard way. If you want to replace these, you'll need to
build your own bracket. If you're gonna do this, email me
if you want more details on what's there and I'll try to
help. The stock speakers are very deep for 4-inchers, enough
that a normal set of 5.25" drivers might fit in the same depth;
BUT, the grill cut-out is 4" in diameter, mounting would be
more difficult, and it's actually doubtful that you'll be able to
fit them not because of depth, but because of room around the
I replaced the stock speakers with a Polk MM-3045 4" driver/ 1"
tweeter component system, if anyone's interested.