Re: STUDS now the HEAD

[a6561TB@gnn.com (Igor Kessel)]

>Tongue in cheek on that one o'course..... I was waiting for someone to give
>the actual procedure a try, I'm totally  convinced that you are a three
>time lucky SOB with your procedure, but I'd sure like you around the next 
>time I have to do it

Sure, I owe you one (and to Dan) for the EXCELLENT advise on the dump valve 
installation. Where do you live?

OK here's what I did. I snapped that Craftsdude EasyOut in the stud flush 
with the stud BELOW the surface of the head. No wonder, it was of a square 
type, likes to wedge itself in the hole. Since it's not spiral, you can't 
counter rotate it out, that makes it a b-i-i-i-g mistake to use it!

First off I called it a day, before I had something else broken and soaked 
my grief in a liter of Spaten Optimator. Naturally that enlightened me to 
machine a guide for the mill. It was obvious that I had to mill the sucker 
out including some meat off the Al head. I went to my work the next Sunday 
morning, opened the machine shop and designed a special fixture for this job 
out of 1/2" brass plate (it pays to have a good friendship between 
Engineering and the Machine Shop, the downside is that I constantly have to 
repair endless consumer electronic devices for their chief which is OK, he's 
a nice fella). I have drilled three 8mm and one 1/2" holes in the plate 
spaced as the exhaust studs on the head. I also made several Teflon 
cylinders (rollers) with 1/2"O.D.x27/64"I.D.x1/2"h. (One of those days the 
English Sys of units will drive me completely insane and I'll have my 
Q-driving privileges revoked).

Then I've mounted the fixture on the remaining 3 studs and fastened it up to 
the head with nuts. The 1/2" hole got positioned right above the broken 
stud's corps COAXIALLY (that is very important!).
Then I've put one of the Teflon rollers in that hole. I've put a 27/64" gold 
plated carbide end mill in the angle drill and inserted it in the 27/64" 
I.D. hole in the Teflon roller. NOW it was running true and square to the 
head/hole/stud and was not able to walk on me in the hole, potentially 
damaging the head. I've milled the stud out very carefully, with lots of 
special cooling oil made for cutting and tapping tools.

After I had a nice 27/64" cylindrical hole in place of the broken stud, 
I've cut a 1/2-13 thread in it with a bottoming tap. In that hole I've 
screwed a threaded repair insert with 1/2-13 O.D. by 8x1.25mm I.D. that  
I've gotten at Hechinger. Did not spare any blue Locktite on the outside 
thread either.

Peace of cake. Was scared sh**lessly in the beginning though...



  
Igor Kessel
the sweetheart: 200TQ, chipped and MOMO'd through out,
in Tornado "arrest-me-officer" Red;
the ex: 5000s, the EE's nightmare
Phila PA, USA
a6561TB@gnn.com