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>did you manage to get the faceplate and the
NO!!!! You'll break it. Besides, you don't need to remove it anyway.
> On my unit, the small circuit board has to slide up off the
>frame to expose the soldered side and the faceplate blocks that move. I
>don't see any way to remove the pointer without breaking it since it
>appears to be moulded onto the shaft.
The board I've been referring to was a top one that is screwed to the bottom
one and the back of the gage combo. Those two boards are connected to each
other, among other things, by two dual M-F Molex headers on the opposite
sides of the combo.
Here's my horror story: I have noticed the intermittent speedo behaviour on
a test drive when I was bargaining with the first owner of my 200TQ. Instead
of giving me the price break the guy took it to one VERY reputable Audi
dealer here in Philly and had it fixed for $400, (I saw the receipt myself).
The damn thing quit working on me the day after we signed the deal. I've
opened the torpedo the same day, found the intermitten circuit right away
and when I've traced it to the Molex header I've discovered the "repair"
made by the dealer two days earlier. IT WAS A WELL CHEWED PIECE OF F****G
GUM! I just could not believe my eyes! The bastard did not even have decency
to touch the cracked solder joint with an iron!
If one day that dealer would be the only one selling Audis in Philly, I'll
buy myself a Chevy Capriccio!
>Incidently, is it true that the tripmeter shouldn't be reset if the car
>is moving? Did I do this to myself?
Yeah, that's what they say. However, I've been doing it myself without any
consequences so far.
the sweetheart: 200TQ, chipped and MOMO'd through out,
in Tornado "arrest-me-officer" Red;
the ex: 5000s, the EE's nightmare
Phila PA, USA