Re: Lub Bolts - A better Anti Seize

[i6941TB@gnn.com]

Now that you've mentioned this...
I do recall a popular opinion about not using the anti-seize in the crucial places 
because allegedly the bolts/nuts become loose.

>.....  For about 10 dollars + 10 min you can do a better and correct job,
> buy a wire brush for your electric drill, use it on the threads of the bolts to
>get the crud off..... Go to a gun store and buy a barrel cleaning brush
>and put this on the electric drill and do the bolt holes in the hub.....  DRY
>torque to spec (a torque spec, by definition, is a dry CLEAN thread, unless
>otherwise noted) and forget the A.S. on the wheel bolts, bottom line, the
>procedure and the A.S. cure are and can be just dead wrong....  Same
>procedure for the brake carriers too.......  Think about the A.S. argument,
>you aren't solving the problem, just creating a new one....

OK, let's do the following for the sake of a clean experiment. The last time I 
have torqued the bolts @ the Glen, 1.5 mos ago. I always do 110NM.

Now, I'm gonna crack a beer open and proceed downstairs to my garage. If the 
clicking thing does its "click,click" @ 110Nm, then its OK to use anti-seaze? If 
it rachets at least one tooth (10° arc) - then the bolt musta come loose and I'll 
fire the graphite stuff on the spot. Stay tuned.

Igor
Igor Kessel
the sweetheart: 200TQ, chipped and MOMO'd through out,
in Tornado "arrest-me-officer" Red;
the ex: 5000s, the EE's nightmare
Phila PA, USA
i6941TB@gnn.com