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P/S pump resealing

Several people on the list have asked me about the details of this rebuild. I've 
decided to repost it with some additions:

The pump usualy leaks @ one or several caps. 
Get a kit and rebuild it yourself in less than an hour, which I did 3
mos. ago on my 200TQ - peace of cake! Just follow your Bently PRECISELY, 
especially in the cleansiness requirements (you DO want to keep everything 
sterile, if not cleaner). The kit is a genuine ZF-made, and has all O-rings and 
seals needed. Its Audi p/n is 026 198 049B and I have bought it from Blau @ 
$16.95. Plus, most importantly, I got to keep my own pump, which is
perfect mechanically.

You also need an impact driver and a special socket which you have to modify 

The socket I've used is a 3/8" drive, looks like a giant flat screwdriver (which 
it probably is). I think the blade is 3/4" wide (19mm x 2mm for my fellow Metric 
Indoctrinated listers). The whole socket is about 30mm tall. I've gotten it 
through my favorite McMaster-Carr catalogue.

Craftsdude has it in 1/2" drive, it's called a "drag link socket". You'll need a 
3/4" one, it's catalogue P/N is 44512, they sell it for $6.49. 

You have to grind the corners off, about 1mm off each side, so that it would fit 
the cross-shaped slots on the pump's end caps.

The rebuild itself is straitforward Bently. Just don't forget 2 crucial things:
1. Notch-mark the reference on the pump body with a chisel BEFORE you separate it 
in 2 halves!
2. Pre-fill the rebuilt pump with the snake fluid by pouring it into the suction 
inlet while rotating the rotor by hand! You can do it on the car before you 
connect the hoses and put the P/S belt on. 

Good luck:-)

Igor Kessel
the sweetheart: 200TQ, chipped and MOMO'd through out,
in Tornado "arrest-me-officer" Red;
the ex: 5000s, the EE's nightmare
Phila PA, USA

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