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[Fwd: Re: HELP GUYS! (Alignment & Wheel/Tires)]
> ...Guy asks if I want a "custom" alignment...
I would guess Standard = Factory Specs (different for each model
sometimes different within a model year, split by VIN#), and that
Custom = Non-factory Specs.
When would you want Non-Factory Specs? On the track.
Look at some race cars. They have much more negative camber
(Bottom of tire out, top in), since the HEAVY cornering forces
try to roll the tire over, negative camber counteracts this.
Then, you need to compensate a bit with toe-in. This is
obviously not optimal for tire wear on the street.
Stay with the factory specs.
> Also, Glenn, you said you watch 'em like a hawk....
> What, specifically, am I watchin' for?
INSIST that they/ Make sure they (DON'T BE SHY) :
In the tire bay:
Remove your lugbolts by hand
Use the 17mm socket not the 11/32 (it's not "close enuf")
Untorque/ Torque in a star/ cross pattern
Installs directional tires/ asym tires correctly
Installs your tires, not those from the car next door
Check every sidewall to make sure it's the right size
Remove the old weights first
Plug in the correct wheel dia/ width/ offset into the balancer
Clean the wheel very well where the weights are going
Use the stick on weights
Get it to ZERO (.25 is not "close enuf")
Watch for wheel out of round, and tire out of round while it spins
If you think tire out of round is present, ask him to spin again
If it is OOR, make him replace it
Installs your lugbolts by hand
Hand torques them to 85ftlbs
On the alignment rack:
Ensure that they choose the EXACT model/year/vin etc, so the specs are right
If front total toe is out, make sure it's fixed, right, exactly
If total toe is ok, check where the steering wheel points.
If straight enough for you, ok
If you have a little extra negative camber, ok