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hydralic lifter noise
In message <337E75A9.1DA4@cotl.com> Rusty Rae writes:
> Well I am having some hydralic liter noise, the tapping sounds, what has
> anybody done to cure this problem, short of rebuilding the engine. I
> have heard the replacing the lifters does not always work? But if it
> does how hard is it to do and how much do a set of liftes for the I-5
> engines cost?
The lifters run around $16 each - you need ten if you're going to do the set.
Replacing them _will_ cure the problem - if that's what it is. An oil change
and a new filter (with non-return valve) might help.
Otherwise - change the lifters. It's a 4 to 5 hour job for a novice on an easy
engine, and 10 hours for an expert on a difficult one (like my MB). Set the
engine to TDC #1, remove the cam cover, remove the timing belt cover and slip
off the timing belt, take off the cam pulley (toughest part of the job), undo
the camshaft mountings and lift out the camshaft. Beware - it's heavier than
it looks. Don't scratch the lobes. Put the camshaft and the bearing caps down
so you can reinstall everything exactly as it was. The lifters just lift out -
they're about the size of the individual pots of marmalade the hotel chains use.
I think it's a good idea to soak the new lifters in Mobil 1 overnight.
Retorquing the camshaft caps and the camshaft pulley needs care - the camshaft
runs directly in the metal of the head, so there are no bearing shells. Ruin
one of these bearings, and it's a new head. The caps are asymmetric - not
obvious at first. It's not wise to let the cam turn more than a very few
degrees when removing and refitting the pulley. Set everything back to TDC
(don't forget to check the distributor), slip the timing belt back on and
replace the covers.
You should replace the camshaft oil seal while you're in there. A rubber cam
cover gasket is also a good idea - check that the reinforced holes fit right
down over the studs, they're shouldered. Having done both lifters and seal,
you'll need to reset the CO, etc.
Some engines don't let you in so easily. You can't remove the timing belt
cover on an MB without removing the hydraulic pump (leave the hoses on) and you
can't do that without removing the auxiliary radiator - which involves
partially draining the coolant and removing the transom, which contains the
bonnet release cable. Plus there's a whole lot of furniture on top of the MB
engine that has to come off. If it's a US engine with a side-mounted vacuum
pump - take that off before starting.
Committee Member, UK Audi [ur-]quattro Owners Club