No Subject

Responding to your questions:

As far as the original clutch is concerned, I don't know how long they are
"supposed" to last on these cars, but mine was replaced at 80K miles.  The
clutch take-up should be very smooth and easy to modulate.  

With the steering rack, get the engine running and turn the wheel back and
forth several times while listening for whining coming from the pump area.
 Also look for any suspicious fluids in the vicinity of the rack seals or the
pump itself.  It should be dry and clean.  The problem will probably manifest
itself as noise before it does in any decrease in steering response.  You can
buy both rebuilt racks and pumps for decent prices, but installing them may
be beyond what you can/will do.

As for the turbo, I would drive the car at night.  Get it on a flat stretch
of open highway and punch it, and watch for any signs of oil smoke in the
exhaust through the rear-view mirror.  Also, any smoke on initial (cold)
start-up are can be indicative of an oil-control problem that could be the
turbo or valve seals.  You should be able to hear the turbo when the windows
are open as a gentle whistle that begins in the 2,000 rpm range.  I don't
know exactly what the dashboard boost meter should read for that car.  

I would also recommend that you start the car COLD.  No engine warm-up
permitted before you turn the key.  This will give you a clue as to how well
the engine is basically functioning.  The lifters might clack for a short
time. but they should become silent 30sec-1min after that time when you run
the car at 1500-2000 rpm.  If they don't quiet down, either the lifters are
worn, the oil is bad, the pump is bad, or the motor might have more serious
trouble.  

GET UNDERNEATH THE CAR AND INSPECT THE OIL LINES FOR THE TURBO CAREFULLY.
 Feel them with your fingers.  Make sure that there is no corrosion or
visible oil leaks on the fittings for the braided lines for the Turbo.  If
there is, you will have to replace these hoses and fittings because they will
eventually break and your engine will shoot oil everywhere if you are lucky
and blow up if you're not.  

Finally, if the owner claims the electrical system is in good shape, what
does that mean?  Check the cruise control, the sunroof, the trip computer,
all four power windows, the power locks, all of the speakers on the stereo,
the power antenna (if there), the dimmer knob,  the headlights:  in other
words check everything with a switch on it.  If it doesn't work, you are
going to have to track it down and fix it.

110K miles is not a lot for these cars if it has been taken care of.
 Maintenance can be expensive because the car is complicated, but with the
Quattro List and the Bentley manual you should be able to keep it running
well for minimal $$.  

Ask for maintenance records and try to get a feel for how much the owner
liked and respected the car.  If you are dealing with an enthusiast who had a
genuine feeling for it you will probably get a better deal than if you are
talking about someone who bought the car because it was cheap. 

I think $4500 is a little high for the car.  I bought my '86 5KCSTQ with
90,000 miles, a new clutch, new exhaust, power steering pump, and alternator,
with all interior gadgets working except the mileage reading on the trip
computer and (because of my ignorance), the turbo oil line corrosion, for
$3800.  The new parts amount to about $2000 in value by themselves.  Of
course, the market in my part of the country could be different than yours.
 Scrutinize the details of the car, but don't ignore it if the major
mechanicals are in good shape.  

Hope this helps.

Alex

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From: "L. Scott Oliver" <SOLIVER@gcwf.com>

I have an 87, 150k miles, pristine condition, I bought 9 months ago for
$3900.  It's an AWESOME car, but it's been very expensive.  Things cost
a lot, even if you wrench yourself, and they're high maintenance
vehicles.  I wouldn't trade it for anything (well, maybe an S6...), but I
spend a thousand here, a thousand there, and it adds up.  You need
euro headlights: $800.  My center propshaft needed to be replaced:
$800.  My clutch is fine at 150, but when it goes, $800-$1000.  Bomb
(test by pumping the pedal fast a bunch of times--no light=you're ok,
warning light=bad bomb): $300.  You want new suspension? 
$800-$1000 in parts.  A/C?  $800-1000.

I'd take it to good Audi mechanic for a checkup (esp. the turbo, though
they seem pretty indestrructible), even if that means going to the dealer. 
Was the oil changed religiously?  Does the afterrun fan and pump
operate after shut down? (very impt. for cooling the turbo and the control
unit is known to fail.  Mine did.)  I have the sports seats and wouldn't buy
one without them--they make a big difference.  Same with the Fuchs
wheels.

I don't want to dissuade you from buying it, if you can get a good price
(4500 is high, but it's a fair starting point for a selling price in the 
mid 3s). 
The cars are not that scarce.  With a chip mod, the car is very very fast
and a blast to drive.  I see the repair bills as a cost of owning a very high
performance car, but you should go into it knowing that it can be an
expensive proposition.  Of course, the flip side is that they last forever,
so once you replace everything around 150k miles, you're set for
another 100k miles.

Email me direct if you have any questions.

HTH,

--Scott
  87 5kTQ 1.8 bar
  San Francisco

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