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Re: Non-heated OXS in place of heated unit

> From: Allan Jones <ampj@tiac.net>
> To: K1drbar@aol.com
> Cc: Mike Tipton <miktip@worldnet.att.net>;
> Subject: Re: Non-heated OXS in place of heated unit
> Date: Sunday, June 15, 1997 04:29 AM
> K1drbar@aol.com wrote:
> > I just found what that open two pin connector is for on
my '85 4kQ ...
> > the heater for the OXS!  Apparently someone replaced it
with a non-
> > heated (cheaper) unit somewhere along the way.
> plugs(not that impressive, but still pretty good!), but
now I need to
> know whether I should buy a heated one or not.

The heated element provides for better control of emissions
in the "start" cycle phase of fuel controlling.
Reason being is the non heated sensor takes quite a few
of driving to get up to operating temp, and operating
By using a heated sensor this operating range can be
achieved much sooner!
Then as an auto manufacturer, you can claim better emission
"overall" since the emissions starts controlling sooner,
and better!

Remember I told you once to make sure the car is warm when
you take it to be 
smog checked!
> Steve and List,
> 	Can anyone give me the proper OXS sensor unit(preferably
> manufacturer-Bosch? 

There are 3 sensors that can be utilized on your coupe!
1-the 3 wire heated, but depends weather you use the Audi
part #034 906 265F
or the Bosch #.(0 258 001 051)
2-the Bosch 1 wire, standard part, Audi#200 906 265,
Bosch#(0 258 001 026)
3- the Bosch "universal", Part #(0 258 001 027)

The Bosch Universal I aquire from Autozone for $20!  So I
have to solder in its wire.
Functions the same as all the above, and costs the least
out of the three!

The heated unit costs over $100!  

>and exact part number) that I should be using on my
> Coupe-GT utilizing only a Jacob's Electronics Omni-Pak
and a K&N air
> filter, and with a Leistritz exhaust and a Midas(sshhh!)
cat. I doubt
> those mods matter to the part number, or type of OXS
sensor, but I
> presently don't 'know' that for sure.

These "toys" make no difference to which ox-sensor you

> Is it heated/should it be? Is it a
> 2-wire or a 3-wire/should it be? Is it the connector type
or do I need
> to do some soldering as was recently mentioned?

Depends on how much money you want to spend, how much
"cleaner" you 
want to make the environment, and whats available in your

> > suppose that the smog tech could fail me immediately if
he notices
> > that the unit is not heated, but I dont think they
check that.

99.9% of the "smog technicians" haven't got a clue!