Popping noise fixed - UrQ duty cycle

[Andrew Finney <afinney@tamsconsultants.com>]

I found the allen wrench to adjust the CO and adjusted the
duty cycle to approx 45-50% with the breather plugged and the
carbon cannister plugged. When I hooked them back up there
was no change in the duty cycle or engine RPM. According to
Phil, that's good. I could easily adjust idle speed and duty
cycle, which is also good. The FTCU passed the idle and WOT
tests for duty cycle. Now the car starts and runs better cold
and warm, it used to have a rough idle when cold and would
make popping sounds when I stepped on the gas right after
start-up. My duty cycle before was 75%. The strange thing is
that in order to get the idle speed to 910 rpm I had to screw
the idle screw all the way in, no more travel. I could easily
adjust the speed higher, but not any lower. It's a california car,
which I thought meant it had the idle stabilizer, but a look
under the fresh air intake cover reveals no idle stabilizer. The
car runs well, but doesn't stall with the oil filler cap off. It
almost stalls but not quite. Is this OK for this motor. I received
numerous posts last time I asked this that said on the early
UrQ's the test wasn't valid. So the questions are, why can't I
adjust the idle to below 910 (timing perhaps) and should the
correctly tuned motor stall with the oil filler cap off? Any
BTDT's appreciated. Thanks.

Andrew Finney
1983 UrQ.