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Re: Light Kit *&$%#@...
> > It should not matter what the resistor is as long as they are the
> > same.The reason the warning light comes on with the lighting kit is
> > because with one relay hooked to one light socket there is a current
> > differential and the sensor picks this up.
> So which is it? The current difference, or the lack of draw from
> relays as opposed to light bulbs?
Both. I would only stress that not the lack of current draw per se but rather a
two order of magnitude lesser current draw.
A long time ago I've put one 9007 on one side, while keeping the stock 9004 on
the other side and the Autocheck went heywire. Evidently the hot filament
resistance differential between the 9004 and the 9007 was enough to trip the
Currently I am running the Euros which are fed through relays, 6 filaments
through 4 relays. Each H4 80w Low runs off a 40a relay and each pair of Highs
(H4 100w + H3 100w) runs off a dedicated relay also. In other words each Low
circuit now sees around 100ohms worth of the relay coil resistance. Although
the current draw is even between the sides, the Autocheck does_not_like it so I
had to disable it. BTW Autocheck does not monitor the Highs.
> I've seen both explanations. I am thinking of relays and bigger
> lights now that I've got Euros, but won't do it if it's
> going to trip that autocheck.
Why not? Trust me, you won't miss Autocheck. This comes from Mr. Perfectionist
who's back itches if there's at least one non-functioning device on his car.
The lights are so bright it's impossible not to notice a burned lamp. Besides,
Euros give you such a great safety advantage that if the need be I'd rather
sacrifice my half-a-kilowatt Alpine *concerto hall* than the Euros. Let alone a
silly Autocheck buzzer.
> What I've considered doing is getting DPST relays, instead of
> SPST relays, and wiring some resistors across the other poles,
> to "simulate" a bulb's current draw.
Naah, you'd be shunting out the relay coils and the secondaries would stay
open. Besides you'll need DPDT, not DPST relays for that.
What you could do, tho, is fool Autocheck by using my method (with a gutted-out
relay or even just two wires, as Al Powell suggested) and install the OEM
Autocheck brain in the secondary circuit of the relays. I toyed with this idea,
even breadboarded my own Autocheck clone (Maxim makes a neat current sensor in
a SO8 package). By that time I had already built and installed an auxillary
waterproof NEMA-4 relay and fuse box with associated harnesss and just was too
lasy to design and etch a new PC board in oreder to incorporate the Autocheck
in the aux relay box.
'89 200TQ - 18psi (TAP)
'98 A4TQ - on order...again. For the third time and counting.