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Re: Light Kit *&$%#@...

Frank Amoroso wrote:
> Hello Igor,

Hello, Frank. Sorry couldn't get arount to replying sooner.
> I am new to the list as of 10/31 and I think I came into the attached thread
> mid-stream. I am, however, contemplating euro-assemblies for my 1993 S4. I
> do want to install relays hard wired to the back of the alternator.

I used the jump-start post instead. I found it much more accesable. Use a 
heavy gauge wire with a hermetically seald in-line fuse. My lights are 560w 
total=> 560w/14v=40a max current. It's a good idea to exceed this value by 
~1,5 times for both the fuse and the gauge of this main supply wire => use 
either 6 or even 4 AWG. I also suggest that you choose a RED colour 
(international convention for a *hot* wire) or a YELLOW (Alpine tradition for 
a const +12v, whereas RED is for switcheable/ignition +12v). I personally 
always follow the Alpine convention (after having installed the first hundred 
of their HiFi systems it kinda gets in your blood forever:)

Of course after you feed this wire to the main bus of your custom made 
fuse/relay box you may choose the smaller gauge/fuse for distributing the 
power to 4 individual relays. Let's say you have my set up with the most 
current consuming beam being a HIGH with 100w H4 + 100w H3, 200w total. 
200w/14v=14a, so you'll need to use no less than a 14 AWG wire with a 20a 

I strongly recomend that you use 4 individual relays and 5 fuses for the 
Euro-light wiring. I saw a lot of horrible wiring on Quattro clubs, mostly the 
el-quicko jobs where a single relay, mounted upside down (I guess to simplify 
the access to the terminals) carries out all the current switching. Needless 
to say that the terminals of said relay are always corroded to the point when 
they are green, thus creating overheat and the subsequent failure of the 
circuit. If you find it difficult to build a NEMA-4 watertight relay box, you 
should at least mount the relays with the terminals down. In this case DO NOT 
use electrical tape for isolation. Use the heat-shrink female spade crimp 
terminals instead. Yes, they are expensive (like 2/$1), but are well worth the 

Do it right, take your time, use heat shrink tubing, wire ties, split looms 
and try to do the job as neat as possible. The reward would be a bullet-proof 
I have yet to see an electrical failure on any item of the tons of aux 
equipment that I always install on my cars. Ever.

The key is to avoid what we call *spaghetty wiring* at all cost.
> For my edification, does what you explained below apply to the S4? Will the
> auto-check trip if I have an equal number of relays on both sides?

I haven't had a chance to work on an S4 yet, but if it's electricals resemble 
those of a 200 it should be no different.

> How does one go about disabling the auto-check?

On a 200 go to the aux relay block in the driver side footwell. The relay in 
question is the second from the right in the middle row.
Prepare 2 pieces of wire 2" long each, with the standard male spade terminals 
on both ends.
Take the relay out and jump 2 pairs of female terminals on the socket.

ACHTUNG! DO NOT screw up this step!

Jump 56L and 56L1.
Jump 56R and 56R1.
> Can you disable just the headlight portion?

Correct. This relay (#5 on a 200) monitors just the headlights portion of the 

Igor Kessel
'89 200TQ - 18psi (TAP)
'98 A4TQ - on order...again. For the third time and counting.
Philadelphia, PA