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Bolt extraction process
Igor, your ingenuity and perseverance never ceases to impress me. But may
I suggest a potential shortcut? Before resorting to the "easyout" process,
use a left-handed drill bit to make the hole. The heat of drilling
combined with the left-handed direction will often back out a broken stud.
I've used this technique five or six times and have yet to need the
easyout. Liberal application of Kroil, or your favorite penetrating oil,
adds to the possibility of success. I bought a set of three left-handed
bits from Eastwood, and although not inexpensive have been worth the money.
Ever consider going into the business of building special purpose tools for
those of us who need them? Or even renting out your own collection?
Regards, Gross Scruggs
> Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 09:50:53 -0500
> From: four.rings@MCIONE.com
> Subject: Re: Exhaust manifault studs
> All of these had prompted me to design and machine a ¶ shaped (a
> Cyrillic equivalent of the Latin letter "P") brass tool with four holes
> mimicking one flange of the EM. Three holes were used for securing the
> tool to the three EM studs, whereas for the 4th one I machined a set of
> teflon rollers. All of them had the same O.D. (equivalent to the DIA of
> the 4th hole) but the I.D. of their respective bores were different as
> to accommodate various drill bits, needed for using in conjunction with
> different easyouts.
> With that tool secured to 3 studs I MILLED(!) a 10mm cavity in where the
> broken stud together with the broken easy out was. I then cut a 1/2-20"
> tread in that cavity with the help of a bottoming tap. Then I screwed in
> a threaded insert (1/2-20" O.D. by 8x1.25mm I.D.) into which I fitted a
> new forged EM stud.
> Fellows, be extra careful with the easyouts! The restoration of just one
> up hole had taken the better part of a week!
> All you need is an angle drill and a set of good industrial duty spiral
> - --
> Igor Kessel
> '89 200TQ -- 18psi (TAP)
> '98 A4TQ -- FINALLY!
> Philadelphia, PA