RE: Thanks, and a climate control question

[Aleksander Mierzwa <alex@matrix.com.pl>]

Steve wrote:

	>(Question: if I replace just the rack for now to get through
inspection,
	>do I risk damaging it if any other component in the system is
bad?

Any serious external leak may cause air to enter the system, which is
bad for the pump. This particularly applies to the pump itself, which
may be damaged beyond repair if used too long in leaking condition.
Small leaks are tolerable, though. 

	>Are there diagnostic procedures for determining if the pump or
the accumulator
	>or the brake servo are bad, beyond visual external leak
checks?)

When the pump fails it usually simply leaks. I think that as long as the
pump doesn't leak much, it probably supplies enough pressure (let
someone correct me if I'm wrong). To test the brake servo start the
engine and disconnect the line going from the servo to the reservoir.
Normally only few drops will escape from the line, if the fluid escapes
in continuous flow the servo has internal leak. To test the bomb it is
best to make sure that the servo and pump are ok. With the engine idling
give the brake pedal a solid press. Does the "brake" warning light come
on? Do you feel vibration through the pedal? Switch off the engine and
start pumping the brakes. How many times can you press the pedal until
it loses power assist? With a dead bomb the pedal will get hard
immediately after switching the engine off.

	>Anyway, the last question for now: the automatic climate system
seems
	>to have lost control of the air vents; it's always blowing out
the
	>defrost vents, although everything else appears to work
normally.

Defrost is the default position for the system. The first thing to check
are loose or broken vacuum lines under the dash.

Aleksander Mierzwa
Warsaw, Poland
mailto:alex@matrix.com.pl
87 Audi 5000CS turbo (mine)
88 Renault Medallion wagon (mom's)
91 mountain bike (just in case both cars broke at the same time :-)