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Check valve R&R'd, but...
In message <199802110052.QAA14771@odf> luis@odf.UCSD.EDU (Luis Patino) writes:
> With this in mind, I replaced the one in my 4ksq with a new one. However,
> the problem remains unchanged (warm no-start due to vapor lock due to low
> residual pressure). What's the next favorite?
System pressure regulator - probably a spring-and-shim thing screwed into the
side of your metering head. Dismantle the shims, clean thoroughly, and re-
assemble. You can get a new valve and shims from Audi for not very much $$ at
all. After that, we're looking for a leaky injector.
> > _VERY_ hard for an inexperience mechanic without trashing the power posts
> > either side of the valve. My success rate is going up, but it's still only
> > around 80%.
> Yes it is a royal PITA. The banjo bolt gets stuck to the valve probably
> because it got more torque than the 20 Nm it should get since the valve
> is torqued to the pump at the factory at 20 Nm itself. The result is
> that the valve spins freely toghether with the banjo @$^%*! bolt & fuel
> line _stuck_ to it, but the valve can't be unscrewed from the pump 'cause
> the power posts block the way of the banjo.
I use a 12LC Vise Grip. It has huge serpentine jaws that look as if they would
go round a 1" pipe - it looks like a sperm whale in profile. It takes a few
minutes to get it seated at the extreme end of the tightness band, but it works
like a dream. I agree about removing the subsystem, though. Just four 10mm
bolts, one hose clip and a flare nut. Much easier than tackling the banjo from
underneath. Be careful not to overstress the plastic pipes, though.
> C'mon, listers, I told you how I did it. Now answer my questions,
Committee Member, UK Audi [ur-]quattro Owners Club