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Check valve R&R'd, but...

In message <199802110052.QAA14771@odf> luis@odf.UCSD.EDU (Luis Patino) writes:

> With this in mind, I replaced the one in my 4ksq with a new one. However,
> the problem remains unchanged (warm no-start due to vapor lock due to low 
> residual pressure). What's the next favorite?

System pressure regulator - probably a spring-and-shim thing screwed into the 
side of your metering head.  Dismantle the shims, clean thoroughly, and re-
assemble.  You can get a new valve and shims from Audi for not very much $$ at 
all.  After that, we're looking for a leaky injector. 

> > _VERY_ hard for an inexperience mechanic without trashing the power posts 
> > either side of the valve.  My success rate is going up, but it's still only
> > around 80%.
> Yes it is a royal PITA. The banjo bolt gets stuck to the valve probably 
> because it got more torque than the 20 Nm it should get since the valve
> is torqued to the pump at the factory at 20 Nm itself. The result is
> that the valve spins freely toghether with the banjo @$^%*! bolt & fuel
> line _stuck_ to it, but the valve can't be unscrewed from the pump 'cause
> the power posts block the way of the banjo.

I use a 12LC Vise Grip.  It has huge serpentine jaws that look as if they would 
go round a 1" pipe - it looks like a sperm whale in profile.  It takes a few 
minutes to get it seated at the extreme end of the tightness band, but it works 
like a dream.  I agree about removing the subsystem, though.  Just four 10mm 
bolts, one hose clip and a flare nut.  Much easier than tackling the banjo from 
underneath.  Be careful not to overstress the plastic pipes, though.

> C'mon, listers, I told you how I did it. Now answer my questions, 
> pleeze!

 Phil Payne
 Committee Member, UK Audi [ur-]quattro Owners Club