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RE: update on 5000S (no chain letter content)

You wrote:

	>Also, thanks to all that told me about the bomb check.  The
only problem is
	>that my brake light is constantly on because of the screwed up
front brake
	>sensors.  My mechanic told me that the previous guy who did the
brake job
	>screwed them up.

The warning light for worn brake pads is different from the light that
indicates bad bomb. The light for brake pads is yellow triangle with
something resembling a brake drum and linings, accompanied with one
beep. The light for low hydrulic pressure, low hydraulic fluid level and
low brake fluid level is red triangle with exclamation sign and "BRAKE"
word, accompanied with three beeps. If this is the light that stays on,
try disconnecting the sensor at the brake servo. If the light
dissapeares with the sensor disconnected, you have a problem within the
hydraulic system. A _really_ dead bomb will cause the light to stay on
all the time. Also seriously leaking servo or bad pump.

	>My problem is that I don't have a real feel for how the
	>brakes *should* feel with assist (or I'm not confident.)  If
the pedal feels
	>hard after a couple of pumps but then feels normal after the
next couple of
	>pumps, is *that* what I'm looking for as far as a problem?

Generally speaking, yes. When the pedal gets hard, try to press it as
hard as you can. If you feel vibration through the pedal, the bomb is
bad. I assume you have checked the servo for leakage. 

	>Any ideas about the blower motor and digital clock problem?

Next time when the blower motor doesn't want to start when it's supposed
to, stop the car, leave the engine running, open the hood and hit the
firewall. If the motor starts, it probably suffers form dirt and lack of

Aleksander Mierzwa
Warsaw, Poland
87 Audi 5000CS turbo (mine)
88 Renault Medallion wagon (mom's)
91 mountain bike (just in case both cars broke at the same time :-)