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Re: Door lock

You don't have to remove the door panel to do this.  Just pull the
door handle.  (A 5 minute job.)  There have been several posts describing

the procedure. Email me privately if you need it.  Then check to see if
both rods
are connected.  If not, it could be a simple matter of fishing the
missing rod out
to where you can reconnect it and go from there.  If you have a broken
on your rod, you may have to pull the door panel off but not necessarily.

good luck,

Paul Anderson:Please send any direct mail to my private address as I
keep up with the list very well.
 Private email AndersonPaul@juno.com

On Fri, 20 Mar 1998 22:39:10 +0000 "Al Powell" <apowell@agcom.tamu.edu>
>"Forhan, Thomas" <Thomas.Forhan@mail.house.gov> said:
>>This morning as I turned the key clockwise in the driver's side to 
>>lock it, the mechanism when went loose. Did not lock, but still 
>>armed the alarm. The power lock works fine from inside the car, and 
>>all doors lock properly from the passenger door.
>>I called my local Audi dealer, and the service rep knew immediately 
>>what I was talking about. He said the cure was a "door lock upgrade" 
>>in which they replace an offending part with a stronger version. The 
>>estimate is $250-$300. Ouch!
>>I could not find anything relevant in the archives :-(, even though 
>>the Audi service rep said is was a pretty common problem.
>>Has anybody tried to fix this one themselves? I look forward to any
>>Please copy tf@pipeline.com as I won't see e-mail here until Monday.
>OK, Tom, you can confirm the problem by pulling the driver's door 
>panel and seeing where the fault is.  My bet is that the lock link 
>connecting from the back of the lock cylinder to the lock actuating 
>mechanism broke.  BTDT.  (Must respectfully disagree with another 
>poster who theorized this is a faulty pump.  Doesn't fit the 
>This is a VERY common problem, and the lock upgrade is in order if 
>this is the fault.  It would in fact turn the alarm on, as the alarm 
>switch is mounted on the cylinder itself - but since the link broke, 
>it would not activate the door lock.
>How to find out: pop the door panel off (20-minute job if you've 
>never done it) and look WAY up in the corner where the door handle 
>is.  Have a helper turn the key.  If you see the back end of the 
>cylinder turn but the lock connecting mechanism running up the inside 
>of the door doesn't move, then it's the link.  It is NOT easy to see 
>up in there, but if you have a Bentley, consult it to get the general 
>layout.  The lock linkage is all stout wire, running between the 
>cylinder and door lock.  It moves up and down when the cylinder 
>triggers the lock.
>The "upgrade kit" consists of a new lock cylinder and a stronger link 
>to connect to the lock mechanism.  Cost about $40.  The rest of the 
>bill is for labor.  Your current door key will stoll work, as you can 
>transfer the tumblers from the old key cylinder to the new one.  
>Again, BTDT.....
>The question is: how mechanical are you?  This repair is NOT very 
>difficult, but does require major door disassembly (really you 
>separate the inner door from the outer shell, but this isn only 
>about 8 bolts...) and some reasonably clever hands to re-assemble the 
>door cylinder mechanism.  No special tools are required other than a 
>pair of circlip pliers with VERY small tips - and patience.  If you'r 
>reasonably handy, you can do this in 2-3 hours.  If you're dangerous 
>with tools, pay the man his $$ and be content.
>I have the entire procedure archived and will be glad to email to you 
>on Monday, but I can't get at it till then.  
>Al Powell, PhD             Ph:  409/845-2807
>Ag Communications          Fax: 409/862-1202
>Texas A&M University

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