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Re: Door lock
You don't have to remove the door panel to do this. Just pull the
door handle. (A 5 minute job.) There have been several posts describing
the procedure. Email me privately if you need it. Then check to see if
are connected. If not, it could be a simple matter of fishing the
missing rod out
to where you can reconnect it and go from there. If you have a broken
on your rod, you may have to pull the door panel off but not necessarily.
Paul Anderson:Please send any direct mail to my private address as I
keep up with the list very well.
Private email AndersonPaul@juno.com
On Fri, 20 Mar 1998 22:39:10 +0000 "Al Powell" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
>"Forhan, Thomas" <Thomas.Forhan@mail.house.gov> said:
>>This morning as I turned the key clockwise in the driver's side to
>>lock it, the mechanism when went loose. Did not lock, but still
>>armed the alarm. The power lock works fine from inside the car, and
>>all doors lock properly from the passenger door.
>>I called my local Audi dealer, and the service rep knew immediately
>>what I was talking about. He said the cure was a "door lock upgrade"
>>in which they replace an offending part with a stronger version. The
>>estimate is $250-$300. Ouch!
>>I could not find anything relevant in the archives :-(, even though
>>the Audi service rep said is was a pretty common problem.
>>Has anybody tried to fix this one themselves? I look forward to any
>>Please copy email@example.com as I won't see e-mail here until Monday.
>OK, Tom, you can confirm the problem by pulling the driver's door
>panel and seeing where the fault is. My bet is that the lock link
>connecting from the back of the lock cylinder to the lock actuating
>mechanism broke. BTDT. (Must respectfully disagree with another
>poster who theorized this is a faulty pump. Doesn't fit the
>This is a VERY common problem, and the lock upgrade is in order if
>this is the fault. It would in fact turn the alarm on, as the alarm
>switch is mounted on the cylinder itself - but since the link broke,
>it would not activate the door lock.
>How to find out: pop the door panel off (20-minute job if you've
>never done it) and look WAY up in the corner where the door handle
>is. Have a helper turn the key. If you see the back end of the
>cylinder turn but the lock connecting mechanism running up the inside
>of the door doesn't move, then it's the link. It is NOT easy to see
>up in there, but if you have a Bentley, consult it to get the general
>layout. The lock linkage is all stout wire, running between the
>cylinder and door lock. It moves up and down when the cylinder
>triggers the lock.
>The "upgrade kit" consists of a new lock cylinder and a stronger link
>to connect to the lock mechanism. Cost about $40. The rest of the
>bill is for labor. Your current door key will stoll work, as you can
>transfer the tumblers from the old key cylinder to the new one.
>The question is: how mechanical are you? This repair is NOT very
>difficult, but does require major door disassembly (really you
>separate the inner door from the outer shell, but this isn only
>about 8 bolts...) and some reasonably clever hands to re-assemble the
>door cylinder mechanism. No special tools are required other than a
>pair of circlip pliers with VERY small tips - and patience. If you'r
>reasonably handy, you can do this in 2-3 hours. If you're dangerous
>with tools, pay the man his $$ and be content.
>I have the entire procedure archived and will be glad to email to you
>on Monday, but I can't get at it till then.
>Al Powell, PhD Ph: 409/845-2807
>Ag Communications Fax: 409/862-1202
>Texas A&M University
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- Door lock
- From: "Al Powell" <firstname.lastname@example.org>