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Re: Subject: Re: 200/100 Euro light installation...
I am slowly catching up with the questions, posted to me over the last
March has been very hectic with the trepanation of the 200TQ's head and
the final project at school, so please forgive me for the long silence.
I have received several questions about Euros which I'll answer in one
> Igor: I <snip> thought I'd start out by upgrading to relays as a start.
> Would love a copy of your schematic; what is Tango, anyways?
Tango (and it's later incarnation - Accel EDA) is a turn key package
that allows you to design a principal schematic, compile the net and
parts list, then design a printed circuit board according to the net
list, and if you are lazy enough, to auto route the tracks on the board.
It is similar to ORCAD, PCAD, PADS and the like.
> What was your source and type of relays, and wiring sizes?
Any standard 4- or 5-pin 30a automotive relays will do (Bosch, Hella
etc.). I used a differnt (solder pin) type coz they had to be soldered
into my custom PC Board.
> You don't seem to have a web site; I'd be happy to
> place a brief description and your schematic on mine, since it is way overdue
> for an update anyways.
No, I don't have my own web site. I have received 8 requests for the
schematic, some of them from overseas. Instead of sending a number of
individual mailings I'd rather posted it on the web. Chris, if your
offer is still valid, I'd gladly send you the schematic for posting.
Perhaps other listers would find it of some use too. As far as the size
goes, I can laser print the schematic in 600x600dpi either on one
8.5x11" or an even integer thereof (x2 will be 4 pages, x3 - 6 etc.). I
can also send you for posting my write-up on disabling the Autocheck.
Also Steven Anderson asked:
> In your last e-mail you mentioned that you used a waterproof NEMA-4 box
> to house the relays. I'm not familiar with that animal. I'll definitely look
> into using the NEMA-4 box as a housing <...> Did you get yours through an
> electric parts/specialty shop?
NEMA is just an electrical standard. You can get enclosures from a
number of cats: Newarc, Mouser, DigiKey, McMaster-Carr etc. I forgot
where I got mine 2 years ago. It is a polycarbonate clamshell with a
rubber gasket in the groove on the perimeter and has internal bosses for
mounting a PC board. The size is approx 15x10x8cm, small enough to be
mounted in the cavity under the resistor for the radiator cooling fan.
All 5 fuses are in-line, in cylindrical waterproof cases, made out of
yellow Si rubber.
> I had been planning on using 2 ea of the 2 types of VW/Audi relay mounts
> I salvaged a while back. PN 251 937 501 has a mounting "ear" on each
> side, allowing it to be fastened to the sheetmetal.
At $3.50 per 40a Bosch relay (available from Hosfelt, MCM etc.) I
wouldn't bother with some old ones from the yard. They are probably
corroded too. At 10-15a of current per relay even 0.5ohm of parasitic
contact resistance will greatly impair the lighting let alone the
> I have the Audi PNs for the spade connectors, the housings, and the
> rubber boots for the headlight assemblies. One part I forgot to ask
> about was a female spade for connecting the various wires to the relays
> (.25 inch wide). Do you happen to know the Audi number?
Naah, you don't need Audi nos for that. Any standard 0.25 female spade
connector will do. Check the above cats, they sell them by weight.
> I'm planning to
> use a least 10-gauge wire to keep resistance at a minimum. Will the Audi
> connectors (N-0170851-4) hold that heavy a wire? Would they maybe allow
> moving up to 8 gauge?
Once again, check those cats for listing of connectors/wire gauges. I
think for 10 gauge wire you'll need the yellow ones.
> Your diagram confirms many of the ideas I've toying with, though you show
> an extra relay (RL3). Since it is "switched" by the green wire coming
> from outside the J4-L headlight connector (and the rest of the headlight
> circuit), I'm assuming it's for a set of auxiliary lights.
No, Steven, I don't have auxiliary lights, you don't need them with the
The fifth relay drives Italian air horns. When I was building the relay
box I figured what the hell, I'll throw in one extra relay just in case.
It indeed came handy later on.
> I'm also curious about the P3 to J3 connections. Are you using modular
They are the standard 3- and 4-wire Molexes. You can use the Pep Boys
auxiliary trailer wiring connectors too.
'89 200TQ -- 18psi (TAP)
'98 A4TQ -- nothing to declare