[Author Prev][Author Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Author Index][Thread Index]

RE: 4ksq Throwout Bearing Replacement

IMHO, you're going about it the wrong way!  The only thing you have to
do with the engine is to provide a support for the front end (VW Tool
$$-$$$ or a few 2x6's and an old V-belt around the front torque mount

I just did a clutch on a '85 4kSQ ... my Bentley says that it is
possible to remove the tranny with the engine in place, which is what I
did.  I disconnected the steering linkages from the rack, removed the
downpipe and cat, pulled out the clutch slave cylinder, disconnected
shift linkage, removed the front half-shafts (remember to loosen axle
nuts while wheels are on ground, but do NOT roll the car while the nut
is loose) and disconnected the prop shaft, pulled the vacuum lines for
the center diff actuator (HINT: note which colored line is fore and aft
before removing!), and the wiring to the starter (after disconnecting
the battery).  Finally come the tranny mounts and disconnecting the
tranny from the motor (BTW, it has been recommended to me that this job
can be made easier by dropping the subframe, but I didn't do it this
way).  There are a few additional bolts holding the engine and tranny
together other than the big ones ... my recollection is that there are 3
such bolts, and at least two of them bolt into the bellhousing from the
engine side.  For me the biggest PITA was removing the passenger side
tranny mount, which would have been much easier if I had dropped the
subframe; and I needed all the extensions in my collection to get at all
of the nuts that attach the downpipe to the exh man.  

Recommended parts list:
-	Clutch plate*
-	Pressure plate*
-	Throw-out bearing*
-	Sleeve that throw-out bearing slides on (METAL, not plastic!)
-	Pilot bearing (make doubly sure you get the right one!)
-	Tranny mounts (2)
-	front drive flange seals (fairly easy to do while tranny is out)
-	CV -> drive flange gaskets - front (2)
-	CV -> drive flange gasket - prop shaft (1, different P/N from
-	exh man -> downpipe gasket
-	clutch slave cylinder (? - easy to do now)
-	rubber hose for clutch (? - easy to do now)

* - You can get a kit from Sachs that includes all these parts.

-	Clutch centering tool (I got a generic metric Lisle tool)
-	Standard metric sockets & wrenches
-	Several sizes of hex drivers (6mm, 8mm, others?)
-	8mm "triple square" (12-point) driver

Notes and suggestions:
-	Check the shift linkage while the tranny is down.  It is very
difficult to get at the linkage when the tranny is in place.  There are
several plastic sockets which can go bad, and the ball on the linkage to
the tranny selector shaft can become loose from its crimp.  Make sure to
use Loctite on the bolt that attaches the linkage to the selector shaft
during assembly.  
-	Check the motor mounts.  My car had a bad driver's side mount.
Audi's replacement for the mount is no longer 1 piece ... you must buy 4
parts, and the new mount looks like a larger version of the tranny
-	While the Fox tranny is light enough that I was able to muscle
it around myself, the quattro tranny was heavy enough to mandate using a

BTW, I've also done a clutch on my '78 Audi Fox ... AAMOF, the Fox now
has a 5-speed from an '86 4k.  You didn't remove the engine to do this
clutch did you?

Steve Buchholz
San Jose, CA (USA)

... now in the middle of a more comprehensive procedure on a 5kCSQW ...

> ----------
> The throwout bearing on my 1985 4000S Quattro has apparently
> failed suddenly and rather noisily.  After studying the
> procedure for engine removal and replacement in the Bentley
> manual, I think I have a pretty good idea of what I am getting
> into, but I have a question.  The manual calls for removal of
> the v belt pulley, presumably to allow moving the engine far
> enough forward so that it will disengage from the transaxle.
> Since I don't have "supporting tool 2084" at my disposal, what
> is the best way to keep the crankshaft from rotating so that I
> can apply the 250 or so foot pounds necessary to break the
> bolt loose?
> Judging from the Bentley manual, this looks like a two Saturday
> project at best.  I recently helped my son reinstall the 
> transaxle in his '89 Fox, so I'm pretty sure that removing
> the engine is less trouble than removing the transaxle, especially
> with that extra driveshaft to deal with.  Am I correct in this
> assumption?