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5ktq timing belt probs

Doug writes
>This is one woe I hope the list can quickly dispel!
>I had a heck of a time tryig to find TDC on this
>engine. When the mark on the crankshaft pulley
>lined up with the mark on the lower timing belt
>cover, I expected to see the dot on the back of 
>the cam gear line up at the top of the head. No,
>ok, it's 180-degrees out, turn it around, wait,
>where is the dot on the back of the timing gear,
>it's just not there at all... hmm, there it is,

Ok, let's go back a little, I know what you did, and you were 180 out, but
basics first.  Forget the front cover reference mark, that is for production
*  Remove distributor cap
*  Find -O- in bellhousing
*  Find notch in back of cam, should be in line with lip of valve cover on
drivers side
*  Confirm you are not 180 out, by looking at the dist reference mark.  On
5ktq's you have a cut in the outer dist housing, and a slit in the inner
rotating assembly, those should be lined up at -0- in bellhousing (or rotor
pointing at #1 cyl, same thing), 180 out is 180 from those slits lining up
*  Now you have tdc

>on the _front_ of the cam gear. I see red paint
>on it, and there is also a red paint mark on the
>rear timing belt cover. I line them up, and check
>the mark on the flywheel and its mate on the bell
>housing, and bingo! This looks like TDC.
NO.  This is usually 180 out.  Ck the notch or dot on the back of the cam gear
when you line up the dist ref marks.

>Ok, now, the 2084 tool should just go right on there,
>should'nt it? Didn't work for me... had to rotate
>it beyond (or was it before) TDC to get the tool
>lined up with the harmonic balancer.
there is some play in 2084 to the crank.  But you are close enough not to mash
medal when you do the install on tdc (or in your case tdc +180)

>To make a long story short, I got the four allen-
>head bolts out of the pulley, then loosened the
>big bolt with my new 3/4" breaker bar, then
>rotated it back to what I hope is TDC. By then
>it was getting dark and I was getting hungry so
>I shut own for the night. (Note: belt looks OK,
>and idler wheel looks aftermarket, not OEM, so
.>it's probably been no more than 20k since the
>belt was changed).
Glad you called it a night, hope you read this before mornining :).  The 4
allens stay in the balancer, you only need to remove the 27mm bolt.  Balancer
comes out with gear.  Put the Balancer back on the gear before you put the
gear back in, life is mucho easier.

>I'm almost afraid to remove the crankshaft gear.
>Looking at it I expect to see a clean metallic
>woodruff key slot, but it's dark, like it's 
>got something unexpected in it. (Of, in case I
>didn't mention it, I was going to replace the
>front crank seal, also, since it appears to be
The gear is ready to fall off, it's supposed to come off with the pulley
assbly, you have some melted rubber and paint on it, not a big deal.  Pull the
gear off, you didn't need to take the allens off.
Front crank seal requires another special tool.  The back of the crank gear
has a key, but it's not a woodruff, just an alignment key.  It should be
square, and fit snugly.   If it's mangled replace the gear (it's not that
expensive comparatively speaking).  Make sure you put the crank bolt on with
loctite and torque to spec.  

Make sure you don't bind the belt on gear install.  Also don't overtighten the
belt either.  A good time to do the water pump btw, you are there, and it's

A lot of extra work.  You haven't screwed anything up yet.  Put the belt back
on the way you took it out.  Don't do any rotating now, even if you pull the
distrib cap and find you are 180 out.  Just reinstall the belt and go around
180 degrees and realign all the settings.  What you don't want to do is start
rotating half without the other.  

HTH, if you need more details please email.  We listers don't want you to be
selling spare 5ktq parts this way :)

Scott Justusson
'87 5ktqwRS2
'86 5ktqw
'84 Urq