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RE: connections to fault-diagnostic connectors

On the 4ktq I just installed a momentary switch to read codes.  I don't know 
if yours are different but on the 86 mc all you have to do is ground the 
yellow wire coming out of the computer for 5 seconds and viola.  Works great 
and sure beats the heck out of opening the hood every time I want to check 
codes.  For the check engine light I used a seat belt warning light that I did 
not want anyway.  

At the same time I put a very small on off switch in line with one of the 
computer wires as a kill switch.  It is an easy way to add a little protection 
and cost about $2.50.  That and an alarm should be a must have for those of 
you with visually hopped up cars.  I hid mine in a non visible but easily 
accessible location.

Pat Martin
864000csq turbo, 2 1/2 cat back, H&R-Boge, MC and loving it.  Drilled and 
stopping it. Koenig Cobra 16x7 with Yokohama A520's turning it,  K&N and 
84 4000sq NEW.  AKA: The beater.
95 subaru legacy 
Bothell, Wa

>Phil Rose wrote: 
> Scott M. and others have provided very useful info on construction of the 
LED device(s) for reading fault codes. However the hard part for me comes 
while standing on my head beneath the dash trying to maintain reliable 
electrical contacts. Making/keeping good contact using just the bare wire ends 
doesn't work well for me. Are the plastic (mating connector) unitsavailable 
(as on VAG 1551)? Is a small spade connector best to use--which size?

One thing I have done to avoid screwing around with the fault code
connections, is to permanently mount a simple (normally open, momentary)
push button switch within easy reach and connect the push button switch
across the two wires that connect to these fault code connectors for
initiating the fault code sequence. That way, all you have to do is turn
on the ignition, and then push the switch for 4 seconds to read out the
fault codes. To access the fault code connector wiring, the connector
block is bolted to the air plenum and can be pulled down by removing the
two 8mm head socket screws.

If you don't have the Check Engine light bulb, you can install the 
light bulb back in the empty dash socket, so you don't need to make up
the LED light. On the 200TQ's you can pull the dash pod out slightly and
reach around the right side and insert this bayonet type bulb (1.2 Watt,
12V, with twist lock socket) into the spot for the check engine light,
The Check Engine light is the one in-between the Air bag light and the
door open light.

Another list member contacted CarComp who makes the  VAG1551/2 emulation
software package to get the correct spade connectors for these fault
code connectors. I will check with Carcomp and see if these connectors
are still available.