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Re: Steel plugs in aluminum!
Well, you are wise to try the fill plug _BEFORE_ the drain plug. BTDT,
just always been lucky... <whew>
Try hot and cold, alternating. PB Blaster or P Blaster or whatever it's
called also works well. It's a relatively new product, made by a couple
chemists for the army and now they can market it. Or something. I just
know it works. Heat the area (nut and surrounding parts of diff) as hot as
you dare (use MAPP gas). Then grab some dry ice and apply to the hex nut
until it cools. Rap the nut a few times with a ball pein hammer. Spray
with Blaster and go grab a soda. Come back and see if it can be broken
loose. If not, try the heat/cool cycle again (getting a little hotter and
cooling for a little longer). Spray with Blaster (letting it soak a little
longer) and try again. If it doesn't work, spray some more Blaster, leave
it alone and try the entire game again tomorrow. Another top-notch
penetrating oil is Kroil, but it can be difficult to obtain.
Freeing frozen nuts takes patience. Most times, breaking bolts and
stripping nuts happens from impatience. You can still drive the car
without replacing the gear oil. Although it would be really nice to get
that Mobil 1 in there, it can go a few more days. And remember, once you
do get the plug out, WRAP SOME TEFLON TAPE AROUND THE THREADS so you (or
the next guy) doesn't have to go through the same thing.
At 06:39 PM 7/6/1998 , you wrote:
>Help! I'm having problems finding the right method to loosen the drain plugs
>from my rear diff! I replaced the fluid in my tranny a month or more ago, and
>didn't have these kind of problems! I can't seem to get the front drain
>plug or the fill plug to budge. I've applied moderate heat (propane for
>short durations) and buggered up the hex in the plug as much as I dare before
>trying something else. Is there something that will chemically free these
>plugs from that aluminum housing?
>PS. the "right" method is the one that works! :-)
88 90Q - <insert pithy witticism here>
88 Golf GTi - PRO Rally