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owner-quattro-digest@coimbra.ans.net (quattro-digest): quattro-digest V4 #2507

They may very well be speaking of the origin of the ethylene glycol when
they say it is oil based. Oil, or one of its fractions is cracked to
ethylene, oxidized into ethylene oxide in a second unit, and then reacted
with water in a third unit to make ethylene glycol. 

Gary Whipple
--------- Begin forwarded message ----------
From: owner-quattro-digest@coimbra.ans.net (quattro-digest)
To: quattro-digest@coimbra.ans.net
Subject: quattro-digest V4 #2507
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 02:33:33 -0400 (EDT)
Message-ID: <199807190633.CAA27025@coimbra.ans.net>

quattro-digest         Sunday, July 19 1998         Volume 04 : Number

*  Welcome to the digest version of the quattro list.
*  See the end of the digest for unsubscribe info.
*  In this issue:
Re: sprongle, 10v vs. 20v
Re: 80 Radio Job
Re: How is coolant oil based!?!
Re:(Phil)Anti-lock light stays on all the time
Re: Cross Drilled Brakes
Re:  Re: What's a Comm. Ed?
After Run Devices
Re: Re: What's a Comm. Ed?
Need 4 X 108 15" wheels/Chrome Stripping
Possible causes of "twitching" in '94 S4?
Re:  Re:  Re: What's a Comm. Ed?
98a6q dashboard cover?
87 5000 Turbo Quattro  Parts Needed!!
A/C Compressor Prices for '90 200TW
Re: Adding a boost guage to the S4/S6
Re: blue headlights?
RE: paint
Re: Need 4 X 108 15" wheels/Chrome Stripping
Re: Digest or not?
Re: Micro Fische
RE: sprongle, 10v vs. 20v
RE: sprongle, 10v vs. 20v
Re: http://www.spiralmax.com
A few interesting Q's from TraderOnline...
FW: I raced my A4Q at Donnington, UK against Hondas, Vauxhalls, Alfa
Romeos, Fords, and more and won!!!!!!
Re: odometer
AudiFest '98 pix are up!!


Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 16:56:15 EDT
From: AZIZREGCC@aol.com
Subject: Re: sprongle, 10v vs. 20v

Could you tell me more about what SMS did with regard to the V8Q?


Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 17:08:04 -0400
From: Chris Woodward <cwoodwar@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: 80 Radio Job

Would have done exactly that, but the speakers were shot.  Rubber
surround was deteriorated completely!



Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 17:28:59 -0400
From: Phil and Judy Rose <pjrose@servtech.com>
Subject: Re: How is coolant oil based!?!

"oily"??? Well sorta. But really not an oil.

Maybe what people are _trying_ to say is "viscous, or greasy liquid". The
term "oil" often has, in many contexts, the specification of
water-insolubility, a test which ethylene glycol definitely fails. But
of the meanings of the term oil is: "any of various substances having the
consistency of oil" (i.e., viscous, greasy liquid). The viscous, slippery
nature of ethylene glycol is inherent in that liquid. Not related to


>Date: Fri, 17 Jul 1998 22:41:59 -0500
>From: nscbarry@mail.msy.bellsouth.net
>Subject: Re: How is coolant oil based!?!
>Coolant is primarily ethylene glycol, actually an alcohol, the oily
>prob. comes from the additives to prevent corrosion, and the like. The
>ethylene glycol is what gives coolant that sickeningly sweet odor you
>when you blow a hose, or have some other leak in the system.
>Richard Haroutunian wrote:
>> well, i don't know -- i'm just going by what someone told me.. i don;t
>> think he meant it'
>> s 'oil-based' i think he meant that coolant has an oily texture
>> it's made up of some 'ethyl' something-or-other that gives it an oily
>> texture.

         *  Phil & Judy Rose     E-mail:              *
         *                       pjrose@servtech.com  *


Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 17:35:20 -0400
From: "Doyt W. Echelberger" <Doyt@NWOhio.com>
Subject: Re:(Phil)Anti-lock light stays on all the time

>At 04:13 PM 7/18/98 EDT, you wrote:
>>In message <000101bdb26f$eecbf5a0$ab3a62ce@olga.hknorthamerica> "Kurt
Wesseling" writes:
>>> Last week I let the local tire place replace my front struts
>>If the response is unsatisfactory, have the car flatbedded from their
>>lot to an Audi dealership.     > Phil Payne
>Same story with me, Phil. Same model. Why flatbedded...? Must be either
dangerous to drive or damaging to the system.  I have been driving on
for a week since this started, from the same general mechanical work on
front end (new bearings both front wheels.)
>Doyt Echelberger
>87 5kcstq


Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 14:48:16 -0700
From: "Dave Puterbaugh" <deputer@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Cross Drilled Brakes

Yes!  I had them on my 1994 Volvo 850 turbo wagon.  They were noisy, and
shook quite a bit.  It was bad enough that my wife would not drive the
Checked for radial runout, etc., and found everything was within spec. 
the stock stuff back on and all was fine.

Dave Puterbaugh
- -----Original Message-----
From: Hussey, Dan <husseyd@rayovac.com>
To: 'quattro@coimbra.ans.net' <quattro@coimbra.ans.net>
Date: Friday, July 17, 1998 8:36 AM
Subject: FW: Cross Drilled Brakes

>I don't know about any of you, but I have had bad experiences with
>Brembo cross-drilled rotors.  Any one else????
>'90 200tq
>> ----------
>> From: s1wood@ibm.net[SMTP:s1wood@ibm.net]
>> Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 1998 9:57 PM
>> To: Mark Pollan; quattro; Chris Maresca
>> Subject: Re: Cross Drilled Brakes
>> I have the same on my CQ (except the ss brake lines) and agree with
>> Chris's
>> experience.
>> Scott Wood
>> '90 CQ
>> Charlotte, NC (via K.C., via San Ramon, via Minneapolis...)
>> ----------
>> > From: Chris Maresca <ckm@eainet.com>
>> > To: Mark Pollan <Mark.POLLAN@mci.com>; quattro
>> <quattro@coimbra.ans.net>
>> > Subject: Re: Cross Drilled Brakes
>> > Date: Wednesday, July 08, 1998 4:54 PM
>> >
>> > At 1:45 PM -0400 7/8/98, Mark Pollan wrote:
>> > >Hi All:
>> > >
>> > >I'm getting ready to refresh my brakes (rotors, pads, brake lines,
>> > >fluid) all the way around.
>> > >
>> > >My question is primarily in regard to rotors. I'm not meaning to
>> start
>> > >a debate, but are cross drilled rotors worth it?  Secondarily, what
>> > >pads?
>> > >
>> >
>> > I have drilled rotors, carbon pads and stainless steel lines on my
>> CQ and
>> > am very happy with them.  No fade, very little dust, great pedal
>> feel.
>> >
>> > >The car is my daily driver, mostly highway.  I'm not planning on
>> racing
>> > >anytime soon.  Stock, OEM has been adequate to date but since I'm
>> going
>> > >to be spending the money anyway, the marginal cost of a minor
>> upgrade
>> > >might be worth it.
>> >
>> > The carbon pads and lines added some $$ to the parts, but the rotors
>> were
>> > far cheaper than stock, and better (Brembo's), so it easily made up
>> the
>> > difference.
>> >
>> > Don't remember what the cost was, but e.mail me at ckm@crust.net and
>> I'll
>> > look it up (home vs. work... )
>> >
>> > Chris.
>> > '90 CQ
>> >
>> >


Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 17:29:53 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Mark L. Chang" <mchang@ece.nwu.edu>
Subject: Re:  Re: What's a Comm. Ed?

On Sat, 18 Jul 1998 MSV96@aol.com wrote:

> Choose to believe me or not....but again, I did buy one of these (1987
> commerative build) new back in early '88 and there were several to
> from. (Red and Alpine White only.) I had the window sticker and it

Wasn't dissing -- just trying to point the original poster in the
direction of Eric's informative page.

So, looks like I might track down some PO's and see if I can get that
original sticker (yeah, right)... Cool, so I've got a good chance at
a CommEd owner as well... another surprising thing about this car :)

87 4kcsq CommEd maybe -- logo'd interior, etc... gonna check the 'chives

PS> Wish me luck, gonna check out a 4kq tomorrow for my father...

one drive in the 'ol Q this winter and he grinned ear to ear -- "Wanna
sell me this thing?"  Ah... I think I may have brought him back to the Q

- --
Windows NT crashed.
I am the Blue Screen of Death.            For PGP public key:
No one hears your screams.             finger mchang@ece.nwu.edu


Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 18:12:37 -0400
From: Pcarselle <pcarselle@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: After Run Devices


Both after-run systems are temperature controlled to start. The main fan
and auxiliary pump systems require reaching a certain WATER temperature
(usually "soaking" which occurs about 3 to 5 minutes after stopping the
car and assuming the engine had reached normal operating temperature.
The mere fact that the mechanically driven (timing belt) water pump has
stopped when the ignition is turned off, allows a very rapid heat
transfer from the engine block to the water and temp sector. Two things
are badly needed to prevent heat expansion damage (primaryly exhaust
valves and turbo):
1.- Water circulation from the bottom of the radiator (cooler zone)
2.- Air flow thru the radiator to remove the heat dissipated by the
water; thus the fan and auxiliary pump "tandem" work.
The duration of the after-run cycle varies somewhat depending on several
issues (variables)
1.- Battery, Fan (bearings, Electrical conexions to Fan, brushes etc..
2.- Cleanliness or obstruction of the radiator core...coolant formula,
auxiliary pump health, condition of hoses, internal block cleanliness
3.- Outside air temp
4.- Nature and intensity of the drive prior to killing ignition.(boost
In general the after-run process should last between 3 and 7 minutes as
determined by the coolante temp. at the thermoswitch. 
Injector cooling relates to preventing gasification of fuel prior to
entering or thru the injector body. (a form of "vapor lock").Keep in
mind the injectors are installed very close to the valves and run a very
high temperatures, in addition the seal integrity is assured by non
metal "O" rings, relatively resistant to heat.
The cooling function is initiated by the thermo switch which is mounted
at the rear of the engine and NOT in contact with the coolant but rather
with engine compartment temperature specially in the neighborhood of the
> You wrote.....
"What I'm looking at to be the after run coolant pump, is a small
attached to the engine block near the rear of the engine, and attached
to the coolant hose right before it meets the radiator. Is this the
correct device? It's got a connector coming out of the same wire-line
that the injector blower is connected to. (that's why I'm assuming
they're related)"
Your description of the aux. coolant pump is correct. The connection of
the rubber hoses and respective clamps to the pump  are made to  very
britle PLASTIC extensions, which WILL !!!break with the smallest
twisting or turning.


Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 23:52:50 +0100
From: "Ian J Haseltine" <jim_haseltine@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Re: What's a Comm. Ed?

- -----Original Message-----
From: MSV96@aol.com <MSV96@aol.com>

>The key is the cloth interior...black with "quattro" script

If anybody knows of a source for this cloth could they let me know
I need some in grey to repair a damaged seat.


Jim Haseltine


Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 19:21:06 -0400
From: Chris Woodward <cwoodwar@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Need 4 X 108 15" wheels/Chrome Stripping

If anyone has any 4x108 15" wheels, I would love to buy them from you.
I am replacing the tires on my fiancee's 80 and we think we may want to
get rid of the nasty peeling chrome-plated wheels.  If we can't find
any, I guess I'll be scraping all the chrome off and re-painting them

BTW--does anyone know of an easy way to strip chrome from these other
than just scraping it off?  It would save me a lot of trouble if there's
a chemical out there to aid its removal.

'97 A4ta
'90 80a


Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 20:12:51 -0700
From: "Geoff Jenkins" <jenkinsg@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Possible causes of "twitching" in '94 S4?

I've noticed that the S4 has become twitchy since I fitted 17" rims a few
weeks ago. With the previous 225/50/16's she always tracked perfectly on
surface. With the 225/45/17's, at speeds of 45-65 it starts to almost
out grooves and irregularities in the road. Below 45 it isn't noticeable,
speeds beyond 65, up to 120, it's stable again. It's also fine on the
stretches of well-paved freeway around here at 45-65.

I know wider tires are noted for sometimes causing this, but they're
225's and only 5% lower profile, so does anyone have any suggestions of
might cause this, or what changes/modifications might alleviate it?

TIA, Geoff


Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 20:26:28 EDT
From: MSV96@aol.com
Subject: Re:  Re:  Re: What's a Comm. Ed?

In a message dated 7/18/98 3:29:59 PM, mchang@ece.nwu.edu wrote:

87 4kcsq CommEd maybe -- logo'd interior>>

Hi Mark,

If it an 87 4kcsq with the logo'd interior then I'm am certain it is the
"commerative build" car. The "commerative Edition" cars (Alpine White w/
leather) were '86 model year, and were (mostly if not all) CGT's...HTH


Mike Veglia

PS: Nice car you got yourself!!!!


Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 17:52:55 -0700 (Pacific Daylight Time)
From: Valerie Delane <valerie@savina.com>
Subject: 98a6q dashboard cover?

I am looking for a top-quality leave-in-place black dashboard cover for
98a6q. So, I poked around a4.org, mailed a couple of vendors listed
and received no response--probably because they do not want to deal in
anything so mundane. Does anyone in the SF south bay area want to
recommend an aftermarket accessories dealer? Failing that, I suppose I
would be ok with a mail-order place. Thanks, --V <valerie@savina.com>


Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 18:04:25 PDT
From: "Nick Meyers" <nmeyers@hotmail.com>
Subject: 87 5000 Turbo Quattro  Parts Needed!!

Hello Fellow QListers...I am in dire need of a few parts for an  87 5k 
Turbo Quattro that I have kicking around...I am looking for the 

1)A set of stock headlights w/ sidemarkers and assembly (right and 

2)Rear bumper molding (drivers side and center section)-they r chrome?

3)Used fuba stock antenna

4)Timing belt cover(not rusted..)

5)Tube assembly (made of Black plastic) that runs(and is connected where 
the injectors r located near the turbo assembly).. over the valve cover 
and to the right of the engine lots of airflow!!! (I dont know what it 
is called-doing my best to descibe)..The plastic piece connects w/ a 
black flex tube....

6)Anyone have an extra 87 5ktq head kicking around or 1 from a model 
that will work -will 4kq's 5 cyl head work?...

7)87 5ktq Windshield-i think all 5ks glass will work....

8)valve cover (not rusted..)-looks like a 4kq cover may work...

Please if anyone can help, let me know asap, thanks list!

Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com


Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 22:04:30 -0400
From: "Edward G. Chappee" <echappee@ncia.net>
Subject: A/C Compressor Prices for '90 200TW

Anyone out there have a suggestion on where the best place to purchase an
A/C compressor and accumulator for my '90 200 TQW would be?  A local
shop quoted $450 for the compressor w/clutch (which I need as mine
destroyed itself when the compressor seized!)

Ed Chappee
'90 200 TQW


Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 22:10:04 EDT
From: JEFDO@aol.com
Subject: Re: Adding a boost guage to the S4/S6

In a message dated 98-07-18 10:25:18 EDT, you write:

<< How can I add a boost gauge to my S4?
I put mine under the left air vent near the steering wheel. You can also
it where the ash tray is, or at the bottom of the A-pillar if you can
find the
right mounting cup.

I used a small (?1 1/8") VDO 0-30psi boost guage. Ned recomemded an
pressure guage (aircraft type), but the VDO was cheap, and the fancy one
~$125. With Ned's chip, and the right weather, I cat get up to 19PSI peak
boost (that's above the 14.8PSI atmospheric(1.0Bar), or around 2.25Bar.

Run good quality braid covered vacuum hose from the guage  behind the
carbon(wood) trim, under the dash, to the vacuum line going to the
computer in
the floor of the front passenger side. I used a Y connector on the vacuum
coming from the manifold to the computer, and kept the routing entirely
the dash. It's simple, but time consuming because of the routing. I kept
it on
the cabin side of the fire wall.


Jonathan Fenton
Waterbury, VT
'93 S4sIA3


Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 19:11:10 PDT
From: "scott miller" <macatawa@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: blue headlights?

>Personally, I'm not yet convinced.  While I'm happy that Euros are
>preferable to DoTs (beam cutoff) I think the beam cutoff on the HIDs
>is _too_ sharp.  When a vehicle coming the other way with HID lights
>hits a bump, the lights seem to flash as if the driver hit the highs
>for a fraction of a second.  I find it disturbing.

Disturbing, but much less dangerous.  It takes some time to bleach out 
the photosensitive chemical in your eyes, rhodopsin.  Smaller bulbs with 
poor cutoff give you a prolonged dose of less light, with a greater net 
effect on your night vision.  A well focused beam puts the light where 
you want it, not at fellow motorists or into fog and snow above the hood 
line.  Blue spectrum carries more energy for bleaching, dazzling, 
scattering, and annoying. >:(

'90 200tqw

Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com


Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 23:47:57 -0400
From: Richard Beels <beels@technologist.com>
Subject: RE: paint

Exactly.  The local Maaco guy told me he has to do 13 cars a day to make
money.  Also: every car gets the same prep work; the only difference in
prices is the quality of paint.  I was repainting my wife's old Civic Si
and got the cheap job because we were going to sell it rather quickly.
Well, six months later and the hood looks like it's served as a backstop
a stone-skipping contest.  :-(  There are more chips on the car in the
six months than in the previous 10 years.

Maaco can give a good job if you do the prep yourself.  Call the owner up
beforehand and tell him/her what you're going to do, that you knwo how
system works and since you're doing a lot of prep work yourself, that he
could afford to spend a few extra minutes on the masking.  Also, that
can do a better job on the transition parts of the car (rear edge of the
hood is usually feathered poorly, etc...).  Bondo and prime any dings and
such yourself.  Sand the primer and re-prime if reqd.  This also includes
sanding down the previous paint job (for better adhesion) and doing any
masking you want to be done right.  I live 1/2 mile from one so it wasn't
big deal to do the detail masking.  Remove any trim pieces, fender lips,
etc... that can be removed easily.  Once they paint the car, they bake it
and then it gets wiped down and delivered.  it takes them 30 minutes to
a car - regardless of package purchased and what size it is.  Only makes
sense to do as much yourself as possible with our 'larger' cars.

One other idea is to see if you can get the can of paint from them
you take the car in for the total re-paint so you can do the hood, trunk
and door sills (unless you want to pay the $75 per - basically doubling
paint job) and inside the gas filler door.

At 02:41 AM 7/18/1998 ,  PAT MARTIN said:
>Not so fast.  I have heard from several body shops that Maaco has all
>latest spray equipment and does a great job painting the car.  Where
>is the prep work.  In fact for a friend of mine he prepped it and sent
>Maaco to do the paint work.  Then he brought it back and did the final
>and finishing.

	88 90Q - <insert pithy witticism here>
	88 Golf GTi - PRO Rally


Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 23:35:48 -0400
From: Richard Beels <beels@technologist.com>
Subject: Re: Need 4 X 108 15" wheels/Chrome Stripping

Oven cleaner (lye-based), he says with a rueful grin, remembering the
he tried to removed 150K and 10 years of brake dust from his car right
after he bought it.

At 07:21 PM 7/18/1998 ,  Chris Woodward said:
>BTW--does anyone know of an easy way to strip chrome from these other
>than just scraping it off?  It would save me a lot of trouble if there's
>a chemical out there to aid its removal.

	88 90Q - <insert pithy witticism here>
	88 Golf GTi - PRO Rally

P.S.  Also looking for 15" wheels....


Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 23:30:07 -0400
From: Richard Beels <beels@technologist.com>
Subject: Re: Digest or not?

Agreed.  I use Eudora Pro and it has rules, filters and folders as well. 
find it very easy to manage this (and other) list(s).  On the lists I'm
I get about 400-500 emails per day.  Of those, I read maybe 40-50.  I
to read digests with Tapcis (which is much like GP) and it was a pain. 
makes it quick and easy to find the wheat and discard the chaff.  Highly

At 12:34 AM 7/18/1998,  Andrew Buc said:
>In short, it comes down to the mail software. Granted, I'm generalizing
>two specific programs, but from what I've heard, I think the
>is valid: netmail clients in general are more full-featured than
>CSi/AOL software. I only regret that I didn't change sooner. If E-mail
>is all you want from an ISP, there are ISP's that will give you what
>be enough time for $9.95/month. And then there are the free E-mail
>some of which can be accessed with a standard netmail client.

	88 90Q - <insert pithy witticism here>
	88 Golf GTi - PRO Rally


Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 23:07:34 -0500
From: nscbarry@mail.msy.bellsouth.net
Subject: Re: Micro Fische

Checked with the folks at hte camera shop today about scaning the fische
and putting it onto disk,CD. They had these thoughts, first due to the
of the print, diagrams, etc on the fische, they feel that it might not be
possible to get a good image using a scanner, and enlarging such a small
area so that it is readable. I'm going to try and find them some to try,
get some idea of how it looks. Secondly, not all transparancy scanners
accomodate all sizes, their's will do up to 6x7cm, so the work might have
to be done peace meal. Also they felt that a flatbed scanner would not
likely be able to do the job well bc of the lower resolution levels, when
compared to dedicated transparancy units.
Will keep all informed.
sean 96A6q

FBFISH@aol.com wrote:

> Nscbarry- Thanks , when and if I get the fische, thats a viable option.


Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 21:26:46 -0700
From: "Mark Nelson" <tahoe@msn.com>
Subject: RE: sprongle, 10v vs. 20v

Actually, SMS has lots of newer components for the cars to make them
competitive, such as XTrac gearboxes and the like.  The problem is that
of the prepared S2's were made in '93 and are coming up on the end of
FIA homologation (bad news for people like Rudi Stohl).  The only
that can use them are those of us in the US, and those who run equivalent
type events in Europe and other places around the world.  Out of
is there any price or specs on the S2 over there in Finland?

- -mark nelson

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jouko Haapanen [mailto:joukoh@vtoy.fi]
> Sent: Saturday, July 18, 1998 1:22 PM
> To: Mark Nelson; Mike Zamikhovsky
> Cc: dcoleman@blackrock.com; Quattro List
> Subject: Re: sprongle, 10v vs. 20v
> I think that if someone wants one, there is one for sale here in
> too.  Group A Audi S2, ready-to-race.  Retired from active duty
> due to lack
> of competitiveness against newer machines.  If anyone is interested,
> ask.  This one is probably built with the"good" bits.
> Jouko Haaapanen
> Pori, Finland


Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 21:30:17 -0700
From: "Mark Nelson" <tahoe@msn.com>
Subject: RE: sprongle, 10v vs. 20v

They built the cars and prepared them for the events, from what I
understand.  SMS is/was (??) tied in very closely with Audi Sport.

- -mark nelson

> -----Original Message-----
> From: AZIZREGCC@aol.com [mailto:AZIZREGCC@aol.com]
> Sent: Saturday, July 18, 1998 1:56 PM
> To: tahoe@msn.com; mikez755@sprintmail.com
> Cc: dcoleman@blackrock.com; quattro@coimbra.ans.net
> Subject: Re: sprongle, 10v vs. 20v
> Could you tell me more about what SMS did with regard to the V8Q?


Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 21:49:18 -0700
From: Ken Keith <auditude@impulsedata.net>
Subject: Re: http://www.spiralmax.com

harrison <hsapir@multiverse.com> wrote:
> Car & Driver tested this product on a 98 BMW 540i. They did a dyno 
> before and after installation. The result was absolutly no change in

Actually, they tested a Tornado.  It's a completely different product.


What, did they change the name or something?

- -- 


Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 01:04:08 -0400
From: "Craig D. Niederst" <niederst@telerama.com>
Subject: A few interesting Q's from TraderOnline...

>From time to time I peruse the TraderOnline classifieds to see what Q's
have to offer. Here's some of the more interesting ones I saw:

1994 AUDI S4, green/tan. cd changer, phone. excellent cond. must sell
NADA near 27,000., $17,000.00, (703) 356-8663
Location: Mclean, VA

1993, AUDI, S4, $21900, Color: SILVER, Interior: BLACK, Quattro, mrf
...Brook Tree Auto Sales, Holbrook MA... 7/15 lr, (781)-767-2412.
Location: Holbrook, MA

1991 AUDI 200, Quattro Wagon 20V Turbo,217HP, 5spd, Pearl White, heated
leather, fully loaded, extremely rare,approx 275 imported, one owner,
records, fully serviced, inspected, immaculate color: Pearl White,
$15,500.00, (503) 649-8779
Location: Beaverton, OR

1991 AUDI QUATTRO, V8, 5-speed, 70000 MILES, the ultimate 4-wheel drive,
Kelley Book, $17900, NADA Book $15500, asking $14500 or best offer,
303-940-0458 xxxxxpc
Location: Wheat Ridge, CO

Boy, I'd love to get that '94 S4 for only $17k! Well, I can dream. I have
affilaition with any of these cars, so the usual disclaimers apply.

'92 100S (73k)


Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 22:15:49 -0700
From: "Mike Zamarocy" <***mhdavion@earthlink.net***>
Subject: FW: I raced my A4Q at Donnington, UK against Hondas, Vauxhalls,
Alfa Romeos, Fords, and more and won!!!!!!

I got the game quite awhile ago. There ARE certain stores here in the USA
that carry Import Software (Interact CD in Pasadena, CA), and that is
I got it. I LOVE this game! But when I first started to play it, I
"hell, these cars bash into each other and weave all over, more like an
arcade game". Reason being, after years in SCCA, most drivers did not
this way! Well, it wasn't until I bought the 96 season BTCC Racing video
watched it that I came to realize, they REALLY DO drive that way! And
weave all over cause they are not allowed the sophisticated suspension
our race cars get to have, a large amount of the car has to be from the
street model (at least I think I heard that was the case). I race with it
using a Thrustmaster NASCAR steering wheel, which really helps! Joysticks
keyboards just don't cut it here.

For me, Brands Hatch is the hardest course to do, the turns are wickedly
sharp! Donnington is very good, and plenty of places to pass. Oulton Park
one of my favorites! But I am having a hell of a time on Snetterton!

Oh, and I am looking for anyone in the USA that has this and wants to
against a LIVE player! It is very easy to do, just need the other's IP
address (use WINIPCFG to get it). I tried it already with a few folks
the big swamp (England and Australia), but LAG was so horrible, it was
almost impossible to play it. Anyone interested??????

> -----Original Message-----
> I know I have everyone's attention now. Right?
> I don't mean this to be an advertisement,but I know everyone on the
> has to hear!
> I just downloaded TOCA TouringCar ( DEMO ) from www.codemasters.com a
> Company, and I just have to say that this game is phenomenal.You and
> A4Q or honda (in the DEMO, more in the full version), race every
> professional driver from every automobile marquee in the BTCC Touring
> Championships on virtual ( real ) tracks  i.e.:Donnington in UK, (in
> DEMO and more in the full version). You control the weather,2wd or 4wd
> trans, Manual or Auto trans, choose a
> carAudi,Honda,Renault,Alfa-Romeo,Ford,
> it goes on and on! It's not yet available in the USA until late
> summer, but
> with everyone's help maybe they'll start soon. Just an opinion
> from a fellow
> Q-lister. This game is the sh_t!! Let me know what you think after
> loaded it and raced against 12 cars in s thunder storm in the pouring
> at 150mph bumper to bumper. Just watch out - you can lose your bumpers,
> break your windshield and really screw up your sponsors logo paintjobs!


Date: Sat, 18 Jul 1998 22:20:13 -0700
From: Ken Keith <auditude@impulsedata.net>
Subject: Re: odometer

MSV96@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 98-07-17 16:20:22 EDT, WARATAP writes:
> << I believe the dreaded odometer gear breakage is more model specific
to the
> 4k/4kq >>
> Thank you Ingo for that clarification. It was indeed the 4kq I was
> specifically advised not to reset the odometer on when rolling. Now it
> habit though...reset at the pump before pulling away.

Is that what does it (or helps)?  I didn't know that.

Geez, and I reset it sometimes while rolling.  Gotta stop that like now.


- -- 


Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 02:32:35 -0400
From: Jim Griffin <JGriff@pobox.com>
Subject: AudiFest '98 pix are up!!

Okay folks... the moment you've all been waiting for... a drum roll
please... :-)

I spent a good portion of today scanning and posting pictures (45 if I
counted correctly) of the Mt. Washington, AudiFest '98, and Pueblo
Motorsports Park events. I set them all up on different pages (Mt.
Wash., AudiFest '98 "folks", Pikes Peak competition, and Pueblo
Motorsports Park). There are links to three of them off the main
AudiFest page... but in case it makes it easier, here are all four URLs.

AudiFest '98:

Mt. Washington NEQCUSA Audi Corral:

Pike's Peak competition:

Pueblo Motorsports Park:

Hope you enjoy them all!!

P.S. If anyone else has put up a web site with pictures of these events,
I would like to link to your picture-page off of the main AudiFest '98
site. Please let me know the URL. Thanks.

- --
                     Jim Griffin
                 ICQ # 1315286
'92 Audi 100S - '87 VW Quantum Syncro
 "Perception is often stronger than reality!"


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