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Re: rear-window defroster-connection

Just a thought, but rather than try to solder to glass (so to speak), would
it be possible to glue (using mirror cement) a pressure contact that
presses against those existing patches?

BTW, I would expect silver solder to require more heat.  Good luck.


At 10:18 PM 8/1/98 -0400, Phil and Judy Rose wrote:
>Did you actually get this epoxy to work for a window defroster contact?
>I have wondered if there was a nice 'n easy conductive epoxy suited for
>this. If Ford made it, them maybe their dealers use it. I'll check.
>As to the ability to get the glass hot enough...well, dunno. There are two
>small metal contact patches that are somehow bonded to the glass. I need to
>make my solder joint to these small patches of metal. Doing it successfully
>will require getting heat into them faster than the glass can conduct it
>away (and without destroying the bonding agent that holds these contacts to
>the glass). And without gravity helping the loose spade lug thingy to run
>You don't recall the name of that epoxy stuff do you? :)
>> I have has success using an epoxie compound thaty had a copper substance
>>in it for continuity.
>>In fact as I recall Ford Motor made (or marketed) the product for precisly
>>this application. I doubt you
>>Will ever get the glass hot enough to melt the solder. Too much of a heat
>>sink. I haven't looked for the product recently but it may also be
>>available from the mass marketers.
>> Good Luck
>>  Ron Husak
>>Message text written by INTERNET:quattro@coimbra.ans.net
>>>Date: Sat, 1 Aug 1998 13:46:36 -0400
>>From: Phil Rose <pjrose@servtech.com>
>>Subject: rear-window defroster-connection
>>Well, while waiting for some qlist BTDTs regarding resoldering a detached
>>electrical connector to the edge of the rear window (gulp, it happened to
>>the connector for the ground wire--on the right edge), I asked around
>>locally. One auto glass repair guy said he doesn't try to do it "any more"
>>because sometimes the window cracks (just replace the glass, he glibly
>>advised). An Audi repair shop claimed to have some limited success doing
>>the resoldering, but that their failures were not because the glass cracked
>>(just bad solder-joints, I guess).
>>So I'm inclined to give it a try myself in the near future (oh yeh, I'd
>>best  get my ohmmeter out first and verify that there is good continuity
>>>from the power connctor all the way to the ground connection point.)
>>I have a 120W soldering gun and a 45W iron. Will probably use silver
>>solder, which I assume will require low(est) heat. I think the 45 watt iron
>>would be adequate (and safer), considering that the metal spade-connector
>>is quite small and the glass is not a great heat conductor. Any words of
>>warning or encouragement?
>>Phil Rose               Rochester, NY
>>'89 100
>>'91 200q                pjrose@servtech.com
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