[Author Prev][Author Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Author Index][Thread Index] Re: rear-window defroster-connection
Well, while waiting for some qlist BTDTs regarding resoldering a detached electrical connector to the edge of the rear window (gulp, it happened to the connector for the ground wire--on the right edge), I asked around locally. One auto glass repair guy said he doesn't try to do it "any more" because sometimes the window cracks (just replace the glass, he glibly advised). An Audi repair shop claimed to have some limited success doing the resoldering, but that their failures were not because the glass cracked (just bad solder-joints, I guess). Well, one anecdote: We did this (solder onto the tab/heat glass, etc.) on a friend's Scirroco. Seemed to go well, defroster grid definitely worked. The next morning, he went out to find his rear window shattered. No obvious rocks, bricks, bullets, or other eveidence of rampant and deliberate destruction in the car, radio (and other paraphenalia, in- cluding toll/change) still in car, nothing stolen. It may have been coincidence . . . So I'm inclined to give it a try myself in the near future (oh yeh, I'd best get my ohmmeter out first and verify that there is good continuity from the power connctor all the way to the ground connection point.) I have a 120W soldering gun and a 45W iron. Will probably use silver solder, which I assume will require low(est) heat. I think the 45 watt iron would be adequate (and safer), considering that the metal spade-connector is quite small and the glass is not a great heat conductor. Any words of warning or encouragement? Bear in mind heat warning from above... True silver solder will require a torch to melt, soldering irons/guns will just amuse silver solder. There is a "silver" content electrical solder, but it's just normal electrical solder with a trace of silver to [allegedly] improve conductivity, etc. There are "conductive" glues, so you can just glue the "spade" to the base/remnants of tab. Good luck! -RDH
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