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Re: 90q Timing Belt Job q

At 11:48 AM 10/14/98 -0400, you wrote:
>since you have just been there, I would like to ask you a couple of things. 
>1. I am unsure about the cam pulley alignment: the book says "the top edge
>of the gasket", however
>when I look at the way the old belt is positioned, it looks more like the
>mark is ligned up with the
>top edge of the bracket that holds the valve cover in place. Is this wrong,
>or is this difference insignificant?

With the 2084 tool locked against the engine stop (I don't engage the fork
on the end), I find that the punch mark on the back of the cam gear is
lined up with the joint between cylinder head and valve cover.  I usually
cross check this with the "0" mark on the flywheel.  This was impossible to
verify on the CGT as the flywheel was too rusted to see the mark.  I had to
be doubly careful not to move anything after the TB was removed.

>2. How difficult is it to remove/ install the Idler pulley? Also, the local
>parts people want $70  for it, and since the old one feels normal (no
>grinding) I am reluctant to spend $$. Is that a fair price? The car has
>160,000 on it, maybe it can wait till the next TB job?

I use a modified steering wheel lock plate puller available from Harbor
Freight Tools for $7.00  I just cut 1" (2.5 cm) off each leg and its ready
to use with a 10x50 mm bolt and washer.  The price on the IP is almost
triple what I paid ($28 from Rod at TPC).  A new pulley has a heavy
opposition to turning-feels like very heavy grease is inside the bearing.
Conversely, the pulley I removed from my 4kq at 160k miles spins like a
roller skate wheel and was slightly wobbly-I threw it out.  The pulley I
just took out of the CGT was OK, but since I already had a new one, it got
installed.  The p/n is 069 109 243B made by febi/bilstein.

>3. I am amazed by how lose the old belt feels. Strangely, it seems to pass
>the twisting test (90 degree twist is about what I get) yet when I let it
>go, it can easily flex at least an inch or may be more if I press on it
>between the pump and  the cam pulley. Also, if I slowly turn the
>cranckshaft, I can clearly see a delay in the cam pulley, until the slack
>is picked up. Does that sound right, or is it too lose? The fit on my 4k
>was much tighter.

IMHO, that belt is bad and should be replaced-they're cheap enough.  There
should be no stretch in a timing belt.  I tightened the WP so the timing
belt rotates ever so slightly past 90 degrees.  Works nicely and runs quiet
(no gobbling noises from the WP).


BTW, most of my time spent to do this job is spent detailing the
engine-getting 10 years of oil encrusted crap off the front side.  The CGT
was exceptionally dirty-the valve cover gasket seem to be the factory
original cork and was leaking oil all over right side of the engine.