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re: audi tech day in southern NH, USA (timing belt-a-thon, part one)

I just did my timing belt last weekend. However, won't be there to do
anymore.... :-)

A couple thoughts:

If you don't have the 2048 tool to get the bolt out, GET ONE. I've done
three with it, one without, not worth it to do without it. It's a pain
enough with the tool. I use a six point, 1 1/16" impact socket for the
bolt, a half inch rachet and a pipe as a cheater over the rachet.

If you don't have the puller tool to remove the idler tensioner, I used a
metric bolt which is the same size as the bumper bolt (or just bring your
new one to the hardware store and get a bolt that fits into the large
threads on the shaft). If you can fabricate a "u" bar just like in the
Bently, you're in business. I bought a $1.50 electrical box that goes in
the ceiling, like for a ceiling fan, knocked out the center hole and used a
couple big fender washers. Then I positioned the box so it is on something
sticking out on the box and it pulled it off. Don't think it will work
everytime, but it did for me.

Both times I did my 200q, I did not remove the intercooler. Your knuckles
will show it, but wear gloves and you should be okay.

First step, take bumper off, easy.....then remove the four nuts holding the
aux radiator in place and swing it aside and tape it up with some duct
tape. Loosen all mounting bolts for alternator, PS pump and A/C, remove
belts. The easiest way to get the back bolt off of the PS pump is to put 2
long extensions and one short extensions on the 13mm socket, then use the
rachet over near the distributor if you get my drift. 

If you don't have a 3/8" rachet with a pivoting head, now is a good time to
invest $25. I got a nice Craftsman one three or four years ago, didn't know
why I didn't buy it a long time ago.

Make sure you have a 5mm and 6mm allen head SOCKET that will fit on a 3/8"
drive.. If you don't have one, get one before you start, you can even get
them from NAPA or any local parts store. You'll need it for one of the
bolts on the H2O pump, the timing belt cover (you'll need the socket if you
don't take the intercooler out) and a couple bolts on the lower timing belt

Loosen the "bolt" (but don't take it off, you'll need to rotate the engine
to TDC with it). Take the upper TB cover off, and lower timing belt cover
off. I remove all spark plugs (I also did a tune up, now's a good time to
change those plugs). Once the covers are off, you can see the timing marks
on the lower pulley and the upper cam sprocket. Rotate the engine with a
rachet on the "bolt" until you see the mark on the cam sprocket (a little
punch mark) come around to the top and aligns with the arrow behind it. At
this time, you'll see the main pulley mark coming in line with the little
piece above the pulley, at about 1 o'clock. Get a feeling for where they
are, draw a picture of where the cam sprocket mark is when the lower pulley
mark is dead on (you'll see it's either to the left or the right a little
bit). Leave the engine at TDC.

Loosen the bolts on the H20 pump, watch yourself get wet with that nasty

The TB will loosen, take the main pulley off and the timing belt with come
off. This is where I might deviate from some.......

To replace the water pump, I pull the one stud holding the backing plate
for the timing belt cover. I have never had luck in getting the cam
sprocket nut off, so I just bend that plate back a little bit and sneak the
water pump out. Then you have to sneak the new one in. Make sure the O-ring
is in place correctly.


Take the small bolt out holding the idler tensioner in place. Use the
puller mentioned above and pull it out. Then when you put the new one in,
DO NOT USE THE SMALL BOLT TO DRAW IT IN, it will break.....  I just taped
mine in with a small ball pean hammer, but make sure it sits flat, I had to
do it twice, because the timing belt would not ride on the front of the
pulley because it was cocked, it rode towards the block and caused it to
rub on the upper sprocket.

After I sneak the new water pump in, I look at where the key is on the back
of the lower pulley relative to the keyway on the crank. I think it's
somewhere around 1 o'clock. Have somebody hold the belt on the upper
sprocket (or put a tie wrap around it through a hole), put it around the
water pump and then the lower pulley and tensioner. Get the lower pulley on
the shaft and see if your marks line up, you should screw the "bolt" in to
do this. If you are one tooth off, you'll know it after you rotate the
engine with the "bolt". If the cam sprocket marks line up within 1/2 tooth
of their marks when the lower pulley is on its mark, you are on. Try
putting everything off one tooth and you'll see how obvious it is.

Make sure when the belt is off, you don't rotate the crank!

Then tighten the water pump, BUT NOT TOO TIGHT. Mine sounds like I have a
blower on it because it is too tight. I have to go back in and loosen it.
It should be easy to turn 90 degrees with you thumb and forefinger, but not
too easy.

Tighten the "bolt". Replace the timing belt covers, put on those new belts
(is it just me or does everybody's alternator belt start squealing after
about 8 months?). Fill with coolant, replace plugs, blah, blah, blah. You
get the picture.

I did my whole car start to finish (2nd time on this car) by myself with
replacement of the two auxiliary radiator hoses and plugs, distributor cap
and rotor, new coolant, fill and vent, clean up, etc. in about eight hours.
I would imagine my best time wouldn't get much better than six hours, I
think you could do it a lot less on a normally aspirated five.

HTH -- Good luck and fun to everyone!

BTW, beer makes it better!


91 200q (with new TB that sounds like I have a blower! :-)  )

Paul Waterloo
Eaton Power Plant Controls
Phone 708-524-9464
Voicemail/pager 888-962-7304