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Re: Timing Belt tricks _NOT!
> > The hole I used on my '87 (MC engine) was right on top of the bell
> > housing. You needed quite a long bolt to get to the flywheel. You can
> > see that the bell housing is higher at that point, thus more
> > thickness between the outer edge and the flywheel. I ended up using a
> > starter bolt (from a VW) but I heard that a transmission bolt also
> > works. The diameter of the bolt I used was something like 3/8ths or
> > 5/16ths of an inch (just a guess). David
> If this is a procedure for locking the flywheel while you loosen the
> crank bolt _ DON"T. That hole is not meant to take 400ft/lbs+ removal
> torque, neither is whatever you are locking the bolt against. That
> bellhousing is aluminum, and cast with audi casting (read: kinda cheap).
> That hole is a diagnostic port for VAG toolage not massive torque.
> 2084 has a single purpose, but there really isn't a good substitute.
> 400ft/lbs+ on that crank bolt, puts a whole lot of stress on your
> shortcuts. IME some of those bolts welded in so tight that removal
> torque was well over 800ft/lbs.
> Removing the trans to retrieve the aluminum bits that fell into the
> clutch assembly sounds mighty risky for a timing belt change. Beg
> borrow or buy the 2084 please. David, you are one of the lucky ones.
> Recommending lucky increases the potential that someone just won't be
I'm one of the lucky ones too. When I did my timing belt using this
method, I found the crank bolt to not be as tight as past discussions
would have led me to believe. It didn't seem to be overly stressful on
the bellhousing or flywheel IME. All cars are different tho'.
I think a worse method is to put the car in gear and have someone stand on
the brakes while you undo the crank bolt. How's that for a sick method?!
I would be interested in hearing of some BTDT of bellhousing/flywheel
damage from using the tranny bolt method.