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RE: Ron's Oil Q's
Just for clarity, if it's the "tri-synthetic" I've seen advertised on TV,
it's actually Mobil 1. Beyond this I know nothing. It seems a bit like the
Plus 4 platinum plugs: If 4 electrodes are better than one, then
three-synthetics must be better than one, right?? :-)
>>From: email@example.com [mailto:firstname.lastname@example.org]
>>Sent: Thursday, August 12, 1999 2:21 PM
>>Subject: Ron's Oil Q's
>>Mr. Ron Wainwright <email@example.com> asked:
>>> While driving to my local parts guy for my religious 3k oil+filter
>>> change(Mann filter by the way $3.00) i walked to go grab the usual
>>> 15W-50(synthetic $26.00) and came across this
>>[Tri-synthetic 15W oil]
>>> asked the guy what Tri meant told me it had more oil stuff in it(or
>>> something) can anybody set me straight on that?
>>Easy. Doesn't matter what snake oil claims it has, don't use
>>synthetic but stick with Mobil 1, Amsoil or RedLine. For the price,
>>use Mobil 1. All the rest are johnny-come-latelies and they don't
>>know half what those three manufacturers do about synthetics.
>>> Whell iv'e noticed some
>>> fluid(unknown) leaking under my differential(quattro) whill
>>> churn through the gears and noticed that my rpm's would
>>climb but the car
>>> was'nt, meaning that the car was'nt going as fast as the
>>rpm's were, felt
>>> like the tranny is slippin but my question is no oil goes
>>in the tranny
>>1) You need to find out what's leaking. Look at it and
>>sniff it. Gear
>>oil has a distinctive musty smell and is differential (front drive
>>mechanism). Automatic transmission fluid is reddish. Engine oil
>>which has been run will be gold to black.
>>20 I've never owned an Audi manual, so I'm not sure whether they
>>use gear oil or ATF in the manual tranny. But they DO use oil. ALL
>>transmissions use oil. Whether it's gear oil or ATF is the issue.
>>do i have a leak in the center diff... What seals are down there,
>>Who knows? You can find out. LOOK for the leak. Trace drips.
>>Sniff the oil to see if it's gear oil. Low gear oil will
>>COOK your final
>>drive faster than you can believe. Do NOT let the level go
>>unchecked. Take it to someone who knows VW and Audi and have
>>them check the differential/FWD level, as it sounds like you may not
>>be in a position to do so.
>>> brake warning light has been comming on i need to replace the master
>>> Replaced my rotors and pads 2-months ago the warning lite
>>came on re:blead
>>> the brakes rear first then front then re:did the one rear
>>felt good for a
>>> couple of days (200miles) then felt like pressure
>>dropped(ABS) then this
>>> any ideas as to my next progect? Any help would be greatlly
>>> have the bibles (Bentley manuals)
>>Disregard the brake situation and find out if you have a bad "bomb".
>> (Hydraulic pressure reservoir.) Start the car, wait till
>>light goes out,
>>stab the brakes hard about six to ten times in quick succession while
>>the car idles. If the brake light comes on, your bomb is bad. Takes
>>only about 45 minutes and $250 (do it yourself) to replace it.
>>If your bomb is good, THEN start looking further into the brakes.
>>Typical failure with your symptoms is the bomb, not the brakes.
>>1958 Fiat 1200 Spyder "Transformabile"
>>1983 Datsun 280ZXT
>>1990 Audi 200