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RE: A Arm bushes/torqueing

I have always done it by jamming a 4x4 block between the strut and the inner
fender, this holds the strut out away from the control arm. I then hold the
control arm flat in relation to the subframe (approx. "at rest position" of
the arm), I then tighten the bushing bolts. I then pull out the 4x4 and
gently pull down on the arm and engage the ball joint in the strut. I have
not had a problem yet. Of course I do this all with the car in the air on a
rack:-) but the principal appies to a r on stands. 
Never go under a car on a jack only unless you are willing to trade your
life for what ever you are trying to do, because that is what you maybe

Jim Dupree

		-----Original Message-----
		From:	Huw Powell [mailto:audi@mediaone.net]
		Sent:	Friday, September 03, 1999 1:34 PM
		To:	Iain Atkinson (ETL)
		Cc:	'quattro@audifans.com'
		Subject:	Re: A Arm bushes/torqueing

		> I am only doing the front A arms this year, so the car
will be supported at the front only by axle stands, therefore leaving the
jack free to use to compress the strut/wheel into it's normal position,
which from memory only has a few inches of movement anyway. Am I right in
this or am I still missing something here???

		Yeah, to preload the suspension you will have to basically
take all the
		weight off that sides stand with the jack.  As Phil said, do
you really
		want to  have one corner supported by a jack only and crawl
under the
		car and start torquing away?  NO

		buy, beg, borrow, build, or steal a pair of ramps and do it

		(I just did - my metal ones are too steep for my lowered
car, so I
		bought 3 12' 2 by 10's, cut them all in half, then cut 45
degree angles
		at various distances along the 6 6 foot pieces.  7" run for
each 1.5"
		rise is what I used.  Buncha nails and something to prevent
me driving
		off the sides and ends and I'll be done.)

		Huw Powell


		82 Audi Coupe; 84 4kq; 85 Coupe GT; 73 F250